Demand for Khadi flags takes hit as Centre relaxes Flag Code

As India prepares for a grand celebration of the 75th anniversary of its independence, a unit that spins the fabric used to make the national flag has paused operations. This comes after the Centre’s decision to amend the Flag Code of 2002 in December last year, allowing the import and use of machine-made polyester flags.

Around 30,000 to 40,000 artisans are employed in weaving Khadi across Karnataka. In the months leading up to August, orders start pouring in from government institutions, schools, colleges and the public.

"During the April-March period, we used to get orders worth Rs 3 crore to 4 crore before the pandemic,” says Shivananda Matapati, secretary, Karnataka Khadi Gramodyog Samyukta Sangha (KKGSS), Bengeri, in Hubballi.

So far, this is the only unit authorised to manufacture and supply the Indian flag.

“We had expected orders worth Rs 1.5 crore this year. But, till now have received totaling to Rs 70 lakh,” says Pattar K V, the chairman of KKGSS.

It has been five months now since operations shut down in Garaga Kshetriya Seva Sangh in Dharwad district, which spins fabric for the national flag.

While this reflects the state of khadi production units, the developments have affected the livelihoods of khadi artisans. “People are refusing to give us work in the farms because we don’t have the knowledge,” says Iravva Hongeldar, an artisan. Called Gandhi’s work in Iravva’s village, Garag, there was a sense of pride that came with the livelihood. Her 70-year-old mother, Shanthamma, has spent her life weaving Khadi. Left without employment, the family now barely subsists on savings and loans.

Another artisan in Garag, Anupama H, says that during this time workers would be called in for overtime. “Now stocks are lying untouched,” she says. Every step of the making of a flag was outlined in the Flag Code, including what kind of thread could be used in sewing. “Now, will the Code be respected if they are to be made abroad? Instead of hoisting Indian flags made by Indians, we will be selling flags made by foreigners,” says Anupama H, a khadi artisan.

Weavers and activists have launched an agitation to protest the amendment but have not received the expected response from both the government and the public.

“It is a collective shame that the public has not shown much notice of the decision. It is clearly an emotional issue. Many houses will now fly ‘made in China’ polyester flags because of cheap cost,” says Ananthoo, a khadi activist.

The Union government’s amendment ignores Khadi’s connection to the freedom struggle, say khadi activists. The handspun and handwoven fabric was integral to the boycott of British products in the Swadeshi movement.

Part of the reason why the Centre allowed the use of polyester cloth is to make flags cost-effective particularly with the aim of hoisting the Tricolour atop 20 crore homes on August 15 as part of the ‘har ghar tiranga’ drive, says R S Pandey, Deputy CEO of Khadi and Village Industries Commission South Zone. “It is a challenge and the khadi industry will accommodate all issues,” he adds when asked how the khadi industry would recover.