Spotting the ghost of the mountains

Known for its solitary and elusive nature, sighting the snow leopard in Ladakh is no wonder a memorable experience, writes Khursheed Dinshaw

I felt a chill run down my entire spine. It was not because of the cold. This time the reason was the adrenalin rush I felt as I saw Shan in the wilderness of Ladakh. ‘Could it really be him? I hope my mind is not playing tricks on me?’ I thought as I continued to look through the telescope. Shan decided to answer my doubts by flicking his tail. The long tail not only helps him to balance but also improves his agility. As I caught this movement, I was euphoric and completely forgot about the cold and icy wind.

At -27 °C, despite being bundled up in layers of warm clothing, the cold had started to get to me. My fingers were numb which is quite natural in such a climate.

The sun was going to set shortly which meant the temperature would drop further. However, blankets and warm tea in a thermos that were kept in the vehicle could wait.

What couldn’t wait was my exhilaration at seeing a snow leopard which is known as Shan in Ladakh. Perched atop a ridge, this snow leopard blended completely with his surroundings. The only giveaway of his presence was the small movements he made from time to time like swishing his tail or raising his head from above the rocky terrain.

Then in the blink of an eye, he disappeared. Known as the Grey Ghost because of his expert camouflage abilities, you can be looking at a snow leopard one moment and the next, all you are left with are empty surroundings as if he was never there. With this my sighting was complete.

Every year Oct 23 is observed as International Snow Leopard Day. The big cats have in fact been listed as vulnerable on the IUCN Red List and in Ladakh, some of the locations where they have been sighted are the villages of Ulley and Saspoche. For visitors who would like to spot snow leopards, homestays have been set up in the villages of Ulley and Rong. These homestays reflect an earthy way of living and provide an insight into the simple and wholesome life of Ladakhis.

An interesting architectural feature of many homes in the villages of Ladakh is the presence of two kitchens. During summer, the kitchen on the first floor is used while in winter the ground floor kitchen is utilised.

A typical souvenir to take back are toys made with local wool sourced from either yaks or sheep. These toys help in additional income generation. Since they are made as figurines of snow leopards or the other fauna found in the area, they also increase awareness and help in sensitising people about endemic wildlife.