In the treasure trove of Assam...

Here's a shopping guide to the Assamese city of Guwahati

The Northeast region is a treasure trove of handicrafts and ethnic designs. They are unique to the region and reflect local themes and availability of local materials. Guwahati, the capital of Assam, is the gateway to the region and its shopping outlets amply showcase these.

Weaving dreams

Assam is famous for handwoven clothes. Muga, the golden fabric, is unique not only to the country but to the world. A little on the expensive side, muga saris and dress materials with woven butas (motifs) can add to a connoisseur’s wardrobe. Silks (pat) in different colours and varied designs are eye catching too. Assamese women wear the two-piece mekhela chador, which has become quite a fashion statement today for others too.

They are also available in cotton with ethnic designs. Nowadays, local weavers also turn out dress materials for kurta sets, blouses, cushion covers, and household knick-knacks with the same woven motifs. The other linen people buy are gamochas (handwoven cotton towels with red border with woven motifs). They are affordable and a symbol of the Assamese way of life. Besides numerous shops, Purbashree Emporium is a good place to shop for handlooms.

Jewels of a kind

Assamese jewellery has a unique design not seen elsewhere in India. It has a lot of influence of neighbouring Southeast Asia. Originally, during the Ahom kings’ rule, ruby and emerald from Burma (Myanmar) and other precious stones were used in the 24-carat gold ornaments. Even today, some jewellers make them in particular villages in upper Assam but naturally, they are expensive. An alternative has been introduced by innovative entrepreneurs who turn out the same designs but in silver or gold-plated ones to make them more affordable. Quite a few boutiques in Guwahati and emporiums store them.

Cane & bamboo attractions

The Northeast is abundant in cane and bamboo plants. Even today, bamboo houses in villages are common. Woven baskets in cane for daily use are also common.

Currently, beautiful objects for everyday use such as bags, trays, mats are being sold. The same skill is involved and since it uses natural products, it’s also eco-friendly. Many shops in the city sell these. It’s also worth checking out the traditional Assamese hat, japi, which is decorated beautifully and can be displayed as a wall hanging. NEDFi Haat and ARTFED outlet are good places to buy them.

Bell metal charms

Apart from brass, the bell-metal craft of Assam is famous but not known much outside the state. In lower Assam, places like Sarthebari, Barpeta, etc, are artisans’ hubs who turn out these objects regularly. Another unique Assamese artefact to pick up is the sarai; it’s a a tray on a stand with a pointed cover, like a temple’s top. It’s available in different sizes and used for offering fruits and prasad in the puja room or as a decorative item. The smaller ones (without the cover) are used for offering tamul (betel nut and leaf) to guests, which is a common welcoming gesture in Assam. The advantage of bell-metal is that it keeps its shine without much effort, unlike brass. One can buy saki (like earthen lamp), bati-bowls on a stand, plates too, according to choice.

A tip: The material is heavy and so one should keep it in mind while travelling by air. Also, the pointed portion of the sarai should be packed in checked-in luggage for security reasons, if travelling by air.

Mask magic

Guru Sankardeva, who led the Vaishnavite movement in Assam in the Middle Ages, introduced many cultural elements in Assam, including one-act plays woven around stories of Ramayana. This encouraged the skill of mask making used by characters in the plays. Today, they are confined to a few artisans in Majul. But government emporiums like Pragjyotika Assam Emporium still have them for sale. Also worth checking are hand-painted scrolls based on these stories drawn in the style of that age.