As far as a resident of Christchurch is concerned, there are only 2 periods in the timeline of the city — before and after February 22, 2011. Yes, the very same day when an earthquake measuring 6.3 on the Richter scale claimed the lives of 185 people, destroyed thousands of homes, and left the city in ruins. It’s over 5 years since the disastrous occurrence now, believed to be one of the worst natural disasters the country has suffered in recent times. Today, this garden city on the east coast of New Zealand’s South Island, narrates a magnificent tale of hope and recovery, of resilience and fortitude.
In Christchurch on an invitation from Tourism New Zealand, I marvel at the rapid growth the city has experienced post-February 22, 2011. Driving around the city, I cannot help but admire the broad roads, green expanses, dedicated cycling tracks, and the friendly attitude of the easy-going residents. Any road I take, any corner I turn, there are stark reminders of the trials and tribulations this city has seen.
Unusual sights
Strolling down the well-laid out walkways of Christchurch, my first brush with the story of the city in its present state is with an unusual triangular structure. It is the famous Cardboard Cathedral, the transitional pro-cathedral of the Anglican Diocese of Christchurch, tells Irene of Canterbury Trails, which specialises in guided small group tours. This cathedral, the first non-commercial building to come up after the earthquake, has interesting beginnings. Hailed as one of Christchurch’s exciting new buildings, this cathedral was designed free of charge by Japanese architect Shigeru Ban, winner of the 2014 Pritzker Architecture Prize, in place of Chirstchurch Cathedral, which was seriously damaged in the 2011 earthquake.
Grabbing eyeballs owing to its architectural and engineering excellence, this cathedral is built of wood, steel and poly-carbonate, sourced locally and nationally, and is certified to be 130% of the current earthquake standard. This ‘temporary’ structure is believed to last for 50 years, and stands as a fine example of the island country’s will to rebuild its present, rather than wallow in the adversity of the past. No wonder, this Transitional Cathedral is the most ‘talked-about’ structure, internationally, and also a case in point as an effective ‘emergency structure’ for regions under the threat of earthquakes.
Opened to public on August 6, 2013, this Transitional Cathedral with its seating capacity of 700 has woven itself into the rich cultural fabric of the city by providing a venue for concerts, exhibitions and community events.
The moving story behind the fabulous structure leaves me dumbfounded. Walking past piles of rubble and empty lots that are fenced off, I silently send a prayer heavenwards for the city to regain its past glory. The helplessness of man in the face of nature’s fury, and his struggle to move on, gives me hope of a better future, better tomorrow.
Down the road were several rows of empty white chairs, each different from the other — dining chairs, armchairs, wheelchairs, baby chairs, rocking chairs and so on. Irene is quick to explain that it is an installation by artist Peter Majendie, titled ‘Reflection of Loss of Lives, Livelihoods and Living in Neighbourhood’, to commemorate those killed in the 2011 earthquake. The chairs, numbering 185, represent 185 lives lost, and no two chairs are alike, to drive home the message that each of the 185 people who lost their lives had distinct personalities of their own. The respect accorded by the residents of Christchurch to their unfortunate fellowmen touches me to the core. I feel a lump in the throat.
It’s bright and sunny, but freezing cold. I am wrapped to the teeth. It’s the beginning of autumn in Christchurch. I walk on, enjoying the numbness in my toes and fingers, admiring the street art on the way.
The next item on my itinerary says Re:START. I have no idea what it is. When Irene tells me we are at Re:START, I look around, only to spot shipping containers in all possible colours. Yet again, I realise I’m at a facility that has come up in response to the 2011 earthquake. Re:START is a temporary pedestrian mall built when most buildings in the City Mall, the main shopping centre in the central city of Christchurch, were destroyed in the quake, and the area was cordoned off from public access as a safety precaution while the quake-hit buildings were being demolished.
Thrown open to public 8 months after the earthquake, Re:START marked the first return of retail to the central city of Christchurch after the quake. A happening place of activity in the city, the mall offers an innovative shopping experience with the stores operating out of shipping containers that can be removed and reused after they are replaced by permanent buildings in the future, I’m told. Home to over 30 retail outlets, including banks and cafes, Re:START is yet another testimony to the resilience of the human spirit.
Food for thought
A quiet dinner of jerk spiced chicken with rice & beans, mango dressing, sweet potato and jerk caramel, complemented with a glass of New Zealand’s famous craft beer, ends on a sweet note of homemade churros with cinnamon sugar, chilli chocolate sauce and Spanish-style long doughnuts at Tequila Mockingbird, a Latin fusion bar and restaurant, allowing me enough space to ruminate on the ephemeral nature of human existence.
The night is still young. Though every muscle of mine is yearning for some good rest, I decide to hit the casino. After all, how can a visit to Christchurch be justified without a visit to Christchurch Casino, New Zealand’s first ever casino? Freezing cold notwithstanding, I walk to the casino, located on Victoria Street and, boy oh boy, am I glad to be here? With the latest in gaming technology, fine dining options, a sports bar, and live music, the casino gives me a taste of Christchurch’s exciting nightlife. The razzmatazz of the place catches me unawares. Cannot help but marvel at the joie de vivre of New Zealanders.
Early next morning, I find myself on a breakfast date with C1 Espresso, the first café to come up after the earthquake. Very different from any cafés I have seen before, C1 seems like ‘THE’ place to hang out. Even at this early hour, the place is teeming with people of all ages. A solid breakfast menu, a tempting array of muffins, tarts and pies, a cabinet displaying varieties of tea in little matchboxes, pinball machines, a water dispensing unit that fools you into thinking it’s just an old sewing machine, and an impressive décor that’s at once airy and inviting — the whole atmosphere of the café is bewitching. People of Chch (as Christchurch is known by New Zealanders) take pride in the fact that C1 is local, in every sense of the term — it bottles its own juices and smoothies, the herbs for its kitchen come from its own garden, it sources milk from a local farmer, and has its own grapevines and beehives on the rooftop. Famed for its unique ‘tea experience’, C1 offers a wide range of teas to choose from, and any tea you order comes in a matchbox with two portions — one to be experienced at the café, and the other to be enjoyed at home.
Even as I admire the tasteful décor of the place, I notice a bookshelf with an impressive collection of classics on display. The allure of books is too hard to resist. I go near the bookshelf, and surprise of surprises, the door slides open. I follow the pathway and find myself in the restrooms, where an audio book from the Harry Potter series is playing! This is one restroom Harry Potter fans will not want to leave, I conclude.
But the one attraction at the café that really takes the cake is the pneumatic delivery system that’s in place, where sliders and curly fries are delivered to the table in a jiffy. The curly fries here are the best I have ever eaten, I reckon. C1 is a big hit late evenings, too, with its local craft beer and wine, I learn.
C1 is my last stop at Christchurch. Time to bid goodbye to the ‘cool’ city that’s a fascinating example of ruins and reconstruction. I head to the airport, armed with memories to last a lifetime. And, of course, a few matchboxes of tea, too.
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