Exploring the Hulikal circuit

travel

The area between the coastline and the Malnad region is a deep and dense pocket of forests with a village here and a town there dotting the landscape. B V Prakash returns mesmerised from a trip to Hulikal and surrounding areas that allowed a peek into their hidden treasures.

As the coastal belt of Karnataka with its beaches and backwaters runs along the western border so does the chain of mountains that constitute the formidable Western Ghats that run parallel in a north-south orientation. The western side of these mountains have typically steep and abrupt drops and the area between the coast and the Malnad region is a deep and dense pocket of forests. This zone is criss-crossed with a few roads that form an important link between the coastal plains and the hilly tracts of Malnad. Driving these roads, which are full of steep ghat sections and severe hairpin curves, can itself be an adventure. For the connoisseur of beauty though, the place is also a paradise. The state highway 52 is one such road that passes through this pristine jungle and Hulikal, one of the few towns that dot the stretch.

It was by sheer chance that I landed at this charming spot on my last journey to the Malnad region. Close to Mastikatte, about a hundred kilometres away from Shimoga, Hulikal itself is just another obscure township. With a cluster of houses and an old temple it hardly draws any visitors as such. But it is only after you go inside a little deeper that the beautiful sights around here would unfold.

Eager to see the beauty of the valley that dropped to the west, I first chose to go six kilometres beyond Hulikal to Baalebare Ghat. The ghat which sits right on the edge of the mountains overlooking the densely forested valley is like a balcony from where you can enjoy the panoramic vistas. Farther down the little towns of Hosangadi taluk appear as tiny specks amidst a sea of green. From here the road descends in a steep gradient and the unprotected curves are a challenge to negotiate. As such most vehicles stop here to pay obeisance at the Chandika temple for which the Baalebare ghat is also known for. The shrine built in typical Kerala style a few decades ago has an interesting history. It was in 1940s that one K P Krishna Nambiar from Kerala migrated here in search of a livelihood and settled in Thirthahalli as a driver in a company. His job involved passing through the ghats day after day. One evening as it was getting dark his vehicle broke down and he could not reach his home. Alone in a dense jungle the terrified Nambiar had to spend the night there.

But he had a dream in which he saw a beautiful goddess who said she was Chandika Devi and ordained that a temple be constructed at this place. However, Nambiar did not pay much importance and carried on with his life. Many days later when he had a bout of fever, he saw the vision of a saint who once again reminded him of the need to build the temple. This time Nambiar decided to fulfil the wish and with the help of fellow drivers built a small shrine. In course of time he had more visions and he kept adding to the temple complex with shrines of Mahakali, Shiva and Vishnu. Today the whole place surrounded by lush greenery is referred as Chandikavana and highly regarded. Every vehicle passing by stops here briefly to make an offering.

Within walking distance from the temple and deep down is a temple of Vinayaka reached by a series of steps. On the other side nearby is a nameless waterfall that drops from a height of about 100 ft.

Back in Hulikal the most charming beauty that captured my attention was the backwaters of Varahi. The placid blue waters of the reservoir formed between the forested hills presents a picturesque view. With no soul around and a gentle breeze caressing I felt the time stood still here.

Before winding up my visit, I had eno­ugh time to visit the temple of Gopalakrishna, a simple structure with a tall pillar.

Getting there

Hulikal is  about 100 kilometres from Shimoga via Thirthahalli and 373 kilometres from Bangalore. Buses from Thirthahalli stop at Hulikal and Baalebare (6 kilometres further). For stay and food Thirthahalli (35 kilometres) is suitable.