Insular heritage

The water appears in shades of turquoise in Andaman and Nicobar Islands. Its white sand beaches and colourful marine life could fulfill every scuba diver’s dream. I learnt about this beautiful Union Territory when it made national headlines during the Tsunami of December 2004. It is unfortunate that its beauty remains unexplored.

Just a two-and-a-half-hour journey on a government ferry from Port Blair, the capital of Andaman and Nicobar Islands, will lead one to Havelock Island. It resembles Goa with crowds of foreigners. The place shot to fame after an article in Time magazine deemed Radhanagar Beach here as one of the best beaches in Asia.

To begin with, Havelock Island’s Barefoot resort offers great scuba diving locations; one can also opt to dive with an elephant! The Kala Pathar Beach and Elephant Beach are the other attractions here.

A few decades ago, job postings at the Andaman Islands were seen as ‘punishment jobs’ by government servants because it served as a colonial prison. Called the Cellular Jail, or the kala pani, quite a few freedom fighters, considered as political prisoners by the British, were tortured and hanged to death here.

Colonial prison

The jail, constructed between 1896 and 1906, is an architectural marvel with its long corridors that house individual cells. But, as you learn that the prisoners constructed this structure, the fascination turns to a somber mood. Every corner of the Cellular Jail, including the Peepal tree, has a story to share. Tales of witnessed cruelty and human suffering.

The sound and light show sure gives one goosebumps and a lump in the throat. Notable freedom fighters like Batukeshwar Dutt and Veer Savarkar were imprisoned here; the airport at Port Blair is named after the latter. Other places to visit at Port Blair are the Anthropological Museum, the Naval Museum and Corbyn’s Cove, a beach.

Many tribes inhabit the islands still — the Great Andamanese, Onge, Jarawa, Sentinelese, Nicobarese and Shompens. The Sentinelese is the only tribe totally cut off from the rest of the world. They have refused to allow civilised folks from entering their territory till date.
So, I decide to go on a journey to another island called Baratang, traversing a trunk road and 50km into a forest, where the Jarawa tribe lives. (Restrictions on using road routes have pushed for a longer sea route to reach this island.)

Entering Jarawa’s reserve area comes close to a drill. The tourists’ vehicles, escorted by a police convoy at all times, line up at the gate of the reserve two hours before 6 am. It’s when the drivers attempt to spot the tribals. Almost bare, they have been victims of exploitation. But know that taking their photographs now could land one in prison. My driver reveals that the Jarawa tribals have killed many civilians in the past, but with frequent tourist visits, they are now warming up to civilian interaction.

My next stop is 30 minutes away by a boat ride from Baratang Island — the Limestone cave, located amid thick mangroves. Sailing on the backwaters, my boatman explains that the water beneath is not deeper than 40 metres, and is also home to saltwater crocodiles. The cave, formed over billions of years, takes the shape of several sea creatures.

Have you noticed the scenery printed at the back of a Rs 20 note? A beach, a lighthouse at the North Bay Island and coconut trees — all these form an actual location within the Mount Harriet National Park.

Travelling to Mount Harriet is like a journey to any hill station. But the story that my driver narrates keeps me engaged: A Britisher had constructed a home for his second wife atop the hill. Then he went on to build a bunker fearing a Japanese invasion during World War II. The greenery around is enchanting, contrasting the colours of the sea. As I observe the famous view on our currency in real, I notice that another coconut tree has cropped up right in the middle of the scene!

Chidiya Tapu, the southernmost tip of the island, offers a spectacular ground to watch sunsets, with dead trees on the beaches. However, the beach is off-limits because of the presence of saltwater crocodiles.

Remains of royalty

Next on my island-hopping venture is Ross Island, which is made up of ruins of the lavish lifestyle of the British. Most of the structures are seen supported by the roots and branches of Peepal trees.

The British headquarters had a secretariat office, the Presbyterian Church, a bazaar, a bakery, a water treatment plant, a tennis court, a printing press, a hospital and a cemetery. The cemeteries are the eternal resting places for the young mothers and infants who died of a water-borne disease and the Malaria that broke out on the island.

Since the Ross Island is right opposite the Cellular Jail, signals could be seen and executions could be heard. The British royalty can also be witnessed at the Chatham Saw Mill and Forest Museum.

North Bay, another prominent island that remains uninhabited, is the perfect place for snorkelling, scuba diving and sea walking for the fans of marine life. A glass-boat ride is an exciting way to explore the sea too.

Islands are aplenty to visit, like the Jolly Buoy Island, which I hear has clean beaches. But I was deprived of the visit due to high tide in the ocean. I made a promise to myself to return here and go on exploring the mysteries of the island.