Tarragona treats

The view from my hotel balcony in Tarragona was something to call home about. I am glad I saved Tarragona, a laid-back city about 60 km south of Barcelona, for the tail end of my Spanish sojourn. I had a stunning view of the second-century Roman amphitheatre and a boundless expanse of the mesmerising Mediterranean blue-green waters and the golden vistas. I could hear the timeless rhythm of the sea rushing to the golden sands of the sun-soaked shores.

Donning a hat and shoes, I embarked on a Heritage Walk to explore Tarragona’s rich array of sights that are all within a 15-minute walk from one another. Sharing some tidbits, our guide said, “The bustling port city of Tarragona has many claims to fame. It is the erstwhile Roman capital of the entire Iberian Peninsula. Spanish architect Antoni Gaudi and artist Joan Miró hailed from the Tarragona region. The ancient Roman archaeological sites and historical structures here form the Ensemble of Tarragona UNESCO World Heritage Site.”

Monumental host
Shepherding us around the amphitheatre, our guide filled us in on its illustrious history. It is a minimally restored elliptical arena with banks of seats built into a sloping hillside. Walking along the heavily eroded section of the stands carved into the rock and a section of the southern stands supported by vaults, I could imagine how it hosted up to 15,000 spectators to watch speeding chariots and fighting gladiators.

The amphitheatre had to be partially rebuilt as a lot of it was broken up and used for the construction of the port. He explained how this well-preserved battleground dating back to the second century AD, to the time of Augustus, was used for entertainment, public executions and later became the site of the martyrdom of Bishop Fructuosus and his deacons, who were burnt alive. To commemorate the event, a Visigoth basilica was built on the site at the turn of the seventh century. The basilica, in turn, became a church — Holy Mary of the Miracle — then a convent and a prison.

From the amphitheatre it was a short stroll to the circus complex, within the Old City’s ancient walls. Built by Emperor Domitian for chariot races, it was once a part of the immense main forum of the city. I navigated its bizarre network of subterranean tunnels and walkways. Within the circus is a massive tower from the first century BC that was turned into a Gothic-style palace during the Middle Age. In one of the vaulted rooms, a handsome sarcophagus with reliefs of the legend of Hippolytus is on display. The Roman circus was the site of horse-drawn chariot races, usually between bigae (two-horse chariots), or quadrigae (four-horse chariots).

As I ambled around, I felt I was caught in a time warp. Ramparts, walls, multi-coloured edifices and other public structures built by master craftsmen from Rome are some of the highlights of Tarragona’s Old District. Most of the ancient structures are a medley of Romanesque, Arabic and Gothic architecture. I could sense the town’s medieval heart in its maze of narrow alleyways, old wooden doorways, cobbled streets encircled by steep walls and crowned with a splendid cathedral and its sandstone buildings. I could see the arches of ancient Roman buildings through certain gateways or shop windows and the massive stone walls and ruins of the Provincial Forum in the middle of a square.

Art arsenal
In the middle of the old town lies the majestic cathedral built in 1171 AD. Perched on the highest point of the hill, it is the city’s most emblematic building, and houses Tarragona’s richest collection of medieval art. It is a stunning example of Roman and Gothic architecture and its interiors, a long stretch of tapestries, carvings and a marble altar. The main fasçade, with its enormous rose window, is of particular interest. The Cathedral is built over a small Roman temple that is considered to be the primitive Cathedral. I gazed in wonder at the 21 figures that represent the apostles and other Biblical figures.

The bustling port city of Tarragona plays host to myriad festivals throughout the year. The genesis of castells (human castles or human pyramids) date back to the 18th century in Spain’s Catalonian region. In 2010, UNESCO added castells to its list of Masterpieces of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity. Dressed in their trademark red-and-white striped shirts, the Spanish daredevils known as castellers come together in groups called colles to build human spires, between six and 10 tiers, at an arena in Tarragona. The annual Tarraco Viva festival is an amazing sight to behold.

In the evening, our guide escorted us to Tarragona’s broad, tree-lined avenue called the Rambla Nova, a pedestrian street punctuated with vibrant outdoor cafes and art galleries. We ambled past fountains and statues till we reached the broad promenade of the Rambla Nova, the city’s main artery. I gawked in admiration at the panoramic views of the city and its beaches as I touched the attractive iron railings of the ‘Balcony of the Mediterranean’ like the locals, who believed that tocar ferro (touching iron) brings luck. I wished I am lucky to witness the adrenaline junkies precariously balance people during the next castell.