Crumbling ruins of a glorious era

MOULDERING edifice

Uchangidurga Fort in Harapanahalli Taluk bears witness to the highs and lows of several dynasties. The majestic splendour of the remains and the serene view from the hilltop make it a worthy site to visit, opines Chitra Ramaswamy

The sun appears on the horizon, filtered through a dense veil of rain-bearing clouds as we take off from Davanagere city to the village of Uchangidurga with its fort and a slice of history, 24 km away. Driving along pastoral roads, we reach the village, which is part of Harapanahalli Taluk.

Uchangidurga Fort dots the village landscape and towers atop a huge granite hillock, more aptly huddled amidst two peaks. The fort wall, only segments of which remain today, encircle a series of small undulating hills. Upon one of the peaks, is located the temple dedicated to goddess Uchangemma.

En route, we spot crumbling structures that once served as the quarters for soldiers and constructs where horses and elephants were stationed. A winding concrete road leads to the foot of the hills, from where we begin the exploration of the ruined fort.

While the exact origin of Uchangidurga Fort is shrouded in obscurity, it is conjectured that it began as a small stronghold of some local chieftain. However, in the course of time it changed hands several times as wars were waged and alliances forged.

Symbol of valour

According to records, the construction of the Fort was begun in 971 AD. Several rulers from various dynasties contributed to the construction of the Fort as and when they gained control of it. It is believed that the stronghold once had a moat as deep as the nether world.
It is further surmised that at some point in time Uchangidurga was an important tax collection centre in the region.

Conquest of Uchangidurga was a major achievement in the life of Hoysala King Veera Ballala II, for which he even earned the title Giridurgamalla (conqueror of hill forts). Later Uchangidurga came under the sway of various dynasties including Chalukyas, Pandyas, Hoysalas, Vijayanagara kings, Nayakas, Hyder Ali and Tipu Sultan. In the Anglo-Mysore War of 1799, the British defeated Tipu Sultan, conquered the Fort and established their
sovereignty over the region.

It is evident that the fort has largely succumbed to the vagaries of weather and human encroachment. Yet it is equally palpable that the edifice must have seen its days of glory as revealed by the ruins that spread in an area of 5 km.

Segments of three gateways located at different levels and different directions of the hill and the surrounding structures indicate that the fort had several rings of wall and that it was an impregnable defence structure.

Steps with varying degree of steepness  take us to the first of the three entranceways from where we make our way on a moderately inclined, uneven rock surface to the next level of the hillock. The climb is a trifle tricky as there are no holds or railings. We have half a dozen nimble-footed goats accompanying us on our way up to the next level.

Once on top, we get a breathtaking view of the environs. Sculpted fields of green interspersed with bright marigold patches and stippled with herds of cattle drape the plains below. We see a few squarish bastions and an odd shaped water tank ridden with water, as we climb well laid out stone steps taking us to the next tier of the Fort. We notice a sizeable number of villagers, who reside around the tank.

As we stop briefly and observe the surroundings, goats hop along with us to the steps leading to the Temple. Though the idol of the deity in the Temple is ancient, the temple structure is contemporary. While the Fort Temple draws a steady stream of devotees every day, full moon days attract pilgrims from neighbouring regions as special pujas are performed on the day. Devotees come in large numbers for the annual jatra held in January. The Temple is also known by the name Utsavamba Temple.

Many attractions

A low rumble is followed by a light satin drape of fine drizzle as we make our way  from Uchangidurga to Karadidurga, ‘the land of bears’, situated adjacent to Uchangidurga. The is a belief that in the past bears from the fort would visit the Hanuman Temple here to worship the deity.

We are thankful to the merciful Rain God for sparing us from the downpour during our ascent to Uchangidurga Fort. For, come the rains, it would be almost impossible to climb the hill fort, a substantial chunk of which is a plain slope with neither grip nor steps.

One can find several little-explored, interesting, tourist spots in the vicinity, all within a radius of 50-60 km.

Kondajji village in Harihara Taluk has emerged as a major scout and guides centre in the country. Initiatives of Kondajji Basappa gave a thrust to the scouts and guides movement in the state. With the natural advantage of its hills and lake, the village has evolved as a tourist place over the years.

The scenic Bathigudda Hill near the village offers a bird’s eye view of Harihara and Davanagere.

Shanti Sagara Lake, also known as Sulekere – considered as India’s biggest man-made lake is located in Channagiri Taluk. The lake which benefits about 50 surrounding villages is built by Shantavve  in the 11th century.

 The Pushkarni in Santhebennur built by Kenga Hanumanthappa Nayaka in the 16th century is an architectural marvel. Kalleshwara Temple at Bagali, known for its architecture and sculptures, is another place that beckons the visitors .