Khadi in transition

The traditional weave of khadi, which was popularised by Mahatma Gandhi during the pre-Independence era, has undergone a lot of changes over the years. On the occasion of Gandhi Jayanthi, designers and khadi enthusiasts talk about the transformation of the humble fabric.

Designer Paresh Lamba says that khadi has “definitely evolved through the years”. Though most people are used to the coarse texture of the material, he says that its making has gone through a wide change. “It was always known as the ‘fabric of the soil’ and its association with the Independence movement made it popular with Indians. Many designers have tried to make high-end products out of it. The thread count of the yarn and the finishing have changed a lot now,” he adds.

Paresh, who works with khadi, enjoys designing ‘bundis’ and is hopeful that the fabric will evolve further. “The ‘bundi’ has been in fashion for a long time and still continues to be. Though associated with politicians, these ‘bundis’ can be teamed with just about anything for a trendy look. I add detailing to them, like a brooch or even a feather, to make it more interesting.” Most people believe that khadi needs more maintenance but Paresh says that it’s just like any other fabric.

Other City-based designers like Namrata G, started off designing ‘salwar kameez’ and men’s shirts in khadi. “Eventually, I designed gowns and half vests for men. There is so much that can be done with khadi. It has taken a new form and the fabric has become lighter and more flowy.” Namrata uses the fabric in its purest form while she tries to experiment with some washes. She says that as a designer, she would like to keep the traditional crafts of India alive. “The fabric is one of the most breathable and eco-friendly ones. The world is inching towards greener options and khadi fits the bill.”

There are many who work on the intricacies of design and add different looks to make the fabric more stylish. Shruti Sancheti, a designer from Nagpur who also has a presence in the City and online, says that khadi is a movement in itself as it speaks a lot about the country’s history. “I have worked with the fabric for a few collections and continue to experiment with it. One of them was ‘Swadeshi’, which consisted of stripes and checks. The other one was ‘Le Pondi’, which has floral prints on it. I have worked on maxi dresses, midi skirts and pants to name a few,” she elaborates.

She adds that khadi is now a fashion statement. “I have worked with khadi that had 250 to 300 thread count, that falls well yet has an understated look.”  Shruti states that though the fabric has a niche market, its popularity has grown because of the colour combinations it is available in, the thread count and the contemporary styling given to it now. “Nowadays, the textile is even used globally and it is high time our own people encouraged its growth. It has endless possibilities.”

Many people associate the fabric with a particular age group but youngsters like Siddhi Mehta, a designer with a boutique, says that she wants to break this notion. “Many people believe that khadi is for the elderly. So during my fashion designing course, I did a project on the fabric. I tried to experiment with it and created Western outfits, which included dresses, skirts and open shirts,” she adds. Siddhi, who sourced the cloth from Sevagram, says that she sees a great future for khadi and would like to work with it again.

Khadi dealers in the City agree that the price of the fabric has shot up. “But it has also become more popular among people thanks to the government’s support,” says Saurabh Goel, proprietor of ‘Khadi Bhandar’, Commercial Street. He adds that during this season, they tend to get all the more customers due to the ongoing discounts.