When hills beckon

Ihave always carried an impression about Shimla being a bustling town with crowds and concrete structures, and as such escaped to more remote locales. This time around, I longed to be here and feel the place to know if peace and quietude could be  experienced. And the slow train journey from Kalka was the apt way to do that.

As the train chugged up on the slopes passing through more than a hundred tunnels and over innumerable bridges, the green hills of Shivalik range opened up. The pleasant journey through wooded hills lifted the spirit as I reached Shimla by noon. Checking into a guest house, my friends and I began exploring the town with a quick stroll around.

Shimla was a small town in the middle of a pine forest. In the early 19th century, the British explored and developed the place as a summer retreat and called it the “Queen of Hills”. As years rolled, they even made it the summer capital, constructing Tudor-styled structures with porches and chimneys. The access was made easier when the railway line connecting Shimla with Kalka was constructed in 1906 which later became a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Today we see many of those colonial buildings lining the Mall Road. 

Lofty exploration

We kept the following day open to explore the town. As it dawned, the view from the balcony was a panorama of an endless valley covered entirely with pines and oaks. To our left could be seen a high hill with a statue almost in the sky. Called the Jakhoo Hill, this is the highest place in Shimla at 8,051 ft. Our first venture for the day was to trek up this hill. The three-km climb was steep but the cool and crisp air was invigorating. The wide plateau at the top has a temple and a tall sculpture of a standing Hanuman. The 108-feet-tall statue is imposing and can be seen from any part of Shimla. Walking back leisurely, we came to the Ridge with sweeping views of forested valleys on either side. An eye-catching landmark here is the Christ Church built in neo-Gothic style. The spacious interior has beautiful stained glass windows.

Walking down, we passed by many heritage buildings, but the one that grabbed our attention was the Gorton Castle. Although it was partly damaged in fire last year, its unique architectural style with Rajasthani trelliswork can still be seen. On the western spur of Shimla is the state museum not often highlighted. The immense collections displayed here, be it sculptures, paintings, coins or costumes, are astonishing. 

By evening the Ridge was alive with tourists flocking around parks and eateries. Relaxing on one of the benches looking down the valley, we experienced a sense of comfort despite the crowd.

Embarking on a sightseeing excursion for the second day, we were taken to a spot called Green valley. As the name suggests it is an expansive deep valley with the slopes covered in a green blanket of pines, oaks and deodars. At Fagu and Kufri also the viewpoints afford breathtaking views of the Himalayas. The Indira Park at Kufri has the Chini Bungalow, now a hotel, where the historic Shimla Pact was discussed, our guide said. But the main attraction here is the Himalayan Nature Park where one can find wild denizens like leopards, bears and tahrs, besides a variety of birds. The last place I visited was the Golf Course at Naldhera. Set in a scenic meadow surrounded by deodars, it is the oldest golf course in India. Driving past Mashobra, known for Shimla’s apple orchards, we called it a day.

The last lap was marked by a pleasant drive to Taradevi Hill nearby with an ancient temple. The calm and peaceful ambience was heavenly, as also the astounding views.

Factfile

Getting there

By air: Chandigarh (116 km away) is the nearest airport from where taxis & buses ply
to Shimla.
By train: Kalka-Shimla is anenjoyable toy train ride that takes six hours to Shimla.
By road: Shimla is well-connected with Kalka, Delhi and other cities by bus and taxi.