Making it contemporary

“My dad wanted me to be a scientist like himself and in those days chefs were not considered the specialised, creative professionals they are  today,” he adds.

In spite of specialising in European food, Nimish has made it his mission to promote and popularise contemporary Indian cuisine.

He goes on to explain, “I started researching the cuisine of Baluchistan when I opened a speciality restaurant. I discovered that the kebab originated there and people used to prepare it in advance and carry it to work, eating it cold with baked breads. It is the Middle Eastern equivalent of Western delicatessen food where cured and smoked meats are served which are healthy and fat free. Most people expect a kebab to be spicy and served hot, I serve it cold.”

Nimish works on cuts of chicken, lamb and fish using a delicate blend of spices, sometimes a mixture of olives and herbs. He then slices the cooked meats thinly serving them with interesting relishes or salads.

“We have several digestives in our traditional food like yogurt. I use a dense smoky flavourful version which tastes like smoked cream cheese. The yogurt is smoked in an earthen pot for a couple of hours. Tiny roasted veggies like aubergine or tomatoes filled with this mixture makes a great accompaniment to a meal or even excellent cocktail hors d’oeuvres.”

 “Traditional Indian cuisine is often over spiced and smothered with gravies. It is not popular with the health conscious diner, who is also finicky about taste and presentation,” he says.

While this kind of food is not freely available in the City, it is doable in the home, he advises. “Grilled meats can be thinly sliced and served deliciously cold on a chapati or a naan. It is a perfect summertime meal or snack. Work on presentation and use garnishes attractively if laying it out on a platter. It’s important that food looks appealing when it is served. Cut out heavy gravies and spices and keep oil to the minimum. You don’t have to compromise on taste to eat healthy.”