On my various trips to Madhya Pradesh, I had only visited Orchha, Bhopal, Indore and Mandu. I had only heard about Shivpuri but hadn’t had the opportunity to visit the place. This time around, I resolved to spend some time there, the place most famously known for its royal ambience.
Located at an altitude of 1,515 ft, Shivpuri served as the summer capital of the Scindia rulers of Gwalior, and was known as 'Mini Shimla'. With its thick cover of dense forests and rich flora and fauna, Shivpuri also served as the hunting ground of several rulers, including the British. Emperor Akbar is said to have captured herds of elephants here for his stables while returning from Mandu in 1564 AD. Such is its reputation.
A peek into the history of Shivpuri reveals that the area was awarded as jagir to the Kachwahas of Narwar in the 17th century, and it remained with them till it was taken over by the Scindias in 1804 AD.
The most striking feature of the place was its royal ambience. The many palaces, ornate marble cenotaphs, or chhatris, and beautiful gardens in the place speak of its royal past.
Pink wonder
My first visit was to the Madhav Vilas Palace. As my taxi neared the palace, my jaw dropped, literally, by the sheer magnificence of the edifice. A rose-pink structure, I could well imagine why it served as the summer palace of the erstwhile rulers. With its marble flooring, elegant terraces and iron columns, the palace speaks for the refined taste of the Scindia rulers. The best part of the palace is that it offers breathtaking views of the town and the national park beyond. The palace now serves as a government office. And I envied the people who spend their work-time in a regal structure.
My driver, who was amused by my observation, had this to add - “Madam, wait till you see the chhatri.” What can be so special about umbrellas, I wondered. For, 'chhatri' means umbrella in Kannada. Later I learnt cenotaphs or memorials were also known as chhatris.
The ornately constructed marble chhatris of Maharaja Madhavrao Scindia and Maharani Sakhya Raje Scindia are beautiful structures. The two chhatris face each other, with a water tank in between. A fine blend of Rajput and Mughal architectural styles, these chhatris speak for the respect the royal clans enjoyed during their reign. The life-size portraits of these two royals adorning their chhatris seemed to convey that they are still watching over the place. The fresh flowers and burning incense in each of these chhatris added to the allure of the place. The garden in these chhatris was also a visual treat with colourful flowers peeping out of patches of green.
The next morning, it was time to visit the famous Madhav National Park. One of the oldest national parks of Madhya Pradesh, it is believed to be the dream destination of wildlife enthusiasts and bird lovers. I wasn’t disappointed either. Even as I began my safari, I spotted herds of chital, chinkara, peacock, herons, pelicans, cormorants and some exotic species. I wasn’t lucky enough to spot leopards and sloth bears, the other animals the park is home to.
Right in the middle of the park was George Castle, which served as the jungle resort of the Scindia rulers. History has it that ruler Jiwaji Rao Scindia had it built in 1911 for the overnight stay of King George V, who visited the park on one of his hunting trips.
The structure offered mesmerising views of the Sakhya Sagar Lake around. The fact that it was located deep in the dry deciduous forests of the park added to the mystery of the castle.
For some wilderness
Right next to the national park was the Sakhya Sagar Boat Club, which is home to a variety of reptiles like the marsh crocodile, Indian python and monitor lizard. The vast expanse of water was surely calming, as also the timing of my visit. I was there when the sun was about to set, and the changing colours of the sky, as reflected in the water around, left me speechless. This lake was created on the Manier river in the year 1918. Nearby, the Ghadi Ghar, facing the club, and the Shooting Box, from where one can watch the wilderness, are also worth a sight. The big clock in the Ghadi Ghar was presented to the Maharaja of Gwalior by Nawab Ali Khan in 1921.
My two-day Shivpuri sojourn was almost over. Every minute of it was well-worth. There were many other attractions I gave a miss owing to the paucity of time. There’s always a next time, ain’t it?