'There are 108 ways of draping a sari'

For him creating something different is the most important thing. As he competes with himself, designer James Ferreira needs to see that his next collection is better than the previous one.

James, who is one a celebrated designer, showcased his latest resort wear collection at the ‘India Runway Week’ in Delhi recently.

In a conversation with Surupasree Sarmmah, he throws light on the changing scenario of the fashion industry and how his mother is his biggest inspiration.

How did your interest in fashion germinate?
My mother was an extremely fashionable lady. We had tailors at home, so I learned a lot from her. I also went with her to the tailors to get all her clothes, shoes and gloves done. She was the greatest influence of my life.

You infuse a lot of Indian elements in your creations…
I teach people the art of draping. In India, there are 108 ways of draping a sari but we only know five to six ways. There are 65 ways of wearing the ‘dhoti’ and 49 ways of wearing the turban. I think these unique ways should be made the idioms of fashion. We need to use them as inspiration and create work based on their principles. Which is what I do. I also get my inspiration from the fabrics. I love working with natural fabrics like ‘khadi’, cotton and silk.

You started your design career in 1976, how has the fashion industry changed since then?
When we started, it was the experimental years of fashion, so it was all about fun, helping each other and doing things together. However, now, it has become very professional and is all about using social media platforms to promote oneself. The fashion industry has definitely changed a lot.

Of the celebrities you have worked with, who do you think is the most stylish?
Rekha and Freida Pinto. Both of them are very elegant women. Rekha is the most beautiful woman I have ever met and Freida is one of the most well-groomed women.

A celebrity who you think should listen to your fashion advice…
I usually give my advice to quite a few of them and the best thing about all of them is they are open to advice. However, I can’t point at just one because everyone in the industry, especially in the film industry, has cultivated a style of their own. Whether it’s Alia Bhatt who is the cutesy girl or Priyanka Chopra who is an ambitious international Indian.

Your design philosophy…
Fashion began with a piece of cloth like the sari, ‘lungi’ or the ‘dhoti’ and just how life is a circle, fashion will end the same way as it began.

You are an inspiration to many young designers. Who has been your inspiration?
There is one person in the world who inspires me and he is Karl Lagerfeld. He is a designer who is the most incredible and learned person I have heard about.

Five must-haves when you are travelling…
A pair of jeans, a ‘khadi’ trousers, ‘khadi’ shirts, my La Coste ‘kurta’ and my Zara trousers.

Any advice you would like to give aspiring designers…
Keep it as simple as possible and remember that it’s ladies who are wearing your clothes and not the mannequins.