Oops leads to wow!

Sometimes, mistakes can be rewarding. Such a one happened in Israel. I was on my way to Tel Aviv from Haifa. Both the cities are just over 100 kilometres apart, and I would have reached Tel Aviv within a couple of hours, but it took me seven hours to be there. Why? A wrong turn on the way brought me to the port city of Caesarea, which I found so captivating that I didn't mind spending five hours there.

The world knows that Roman kings were great builders. Housing impressive ruins on a meticulously planned Roman town Caesarea proves that even further. The ancient Roman capital of Judaea, Caesarea, was built by Herod the Great who would choose dramatic locations to integrate architectural principles of that time with natural topography.

He is known for building theatres, fortresses, aqueducts and other public buildings. Besides having built all these, Herod the vassal king built one of the largest and most remarkable seaports of the Roman world in Caesarea, naming it after Emperor Augustus Caesar, who gifted the city to him after conquering Israel in 31 BCE.

It is believed to be the first man-made harbour in open seas. Its dimensions have astonished archaeologists and tourists alike. It could accommodate more than 100 ships because of which Caesarea became not only an international trade centre but also served as a base for the Herodian navy, which operated in aid of the Romans as far as the Black Sea. The prosperity of the land was also raised, which funded Herod's building endeavours in other cities.

Since Caesarea has been magnificently restored, it's now known as Caesarea National Park. No Roman city is complete without an amphitheatre, the foremost venue of entertainment for the Roman kings. Caesarea is no exception. In fact, my guide Roley said that the region's oldest surviving Roman theatre is in Caesarea. Standing east of the Mediterranean seacoast, the open-air theatre with its stone seating has a gorgeous seaside view. It was home to classic Greek and Roman theatre which could seat more than 4,000 spectators, a huge number for the time.

Star performances

The amphitheatre has undergone several renovations, but retaining the old-world charm had been the main objective. Granite-recessed pillars and some other ornamental structures have been added at the entrance to create impressions of an ancient setting. Some of the most prestigious concerts have taken place here. Most of Israel's biggest artistes have performed here, giving the spectators almost the same experience as that given 2,000 years ago. Pop stars as famous as Julio Iglesias and Macy Gray have performed here.

What impressed me most about this ancient coastal city and one of the most important cities of the Roman world is its developed systems of bathhouses and efficient water supply. Luxurious bathhouses from the Byzantine period have been discovered here. A plaque near the bathhouse complex says that the city residents took pride in their bathhouses.

Before entering the bathhouse, bathers would enter the pilaster to exercise. After immersing in the bathhouses, the bathers would again enter the pilaster to receive massages. Cool, isn't it? Herod understood well the need of water of Caesarea residents. He built several aqueducts, high and low, in order to draw water to the city. A must-see aqueduct is the Hadrianic aqueduct, just 10 kilometres away from the national park.

I walked the entire length of the aqueduct with its row of arches to explore its beauty and utility. I wondered how it brought fresh water from Mount Carmel, nine miles away from Herod's palace, to quench the thirst of the city residents. Against the backdrop of the waters of Mediterranean, the aqueduct looked magnificent and imposing.

What was more impressive, or should I say more stunning, was 'the bird mosaic' which Roley took me to. There are many other mosaics which reflect the intricacy of the designs on the floor. This bird mosaic is located in the public park, which was part of a huge mansion in the 6th century. The mosaic depicts in the centre more than hundred birds native to the land, and the border depicts animals and trees.

Archaeologist S Yeivin had found the large mosaic floor as part of a large open courtyard in 1955. Remnants of a hippodrome, which held up to 20,000 people for chariot races, have been also discovered.

Some place for food!

Wandering amidst ancient buildings and wondering how Romans lived in such an enchanting place, my sense of history had given way to my sense of hunger. Roley took me to the most popular restaurant, Post Caf, where I had Israeli salad and a cup of hot coffee. Plenty of cosy restaurants and upbeat cafes are lined up along the beaches with crystal-clear waters.

Right at the Caesarea Port is the art gallery where one can see the world-famous Israeli glass art. Jewish designs on lamps, jewellery and other decorative items were worth a look. Most glass artists say that the port and the ruins of the ancient city have inspired their artworks. After buying a few glass pieces as souvenirs, I started for Tel Aviv, smiling all the way to have visited a fascinating place in the Holy Land, just by mistake.