In an era that normalises mindless hustling in order to eke out an ‘Instagramable’ living, Michelin Star Chef Nicolas Durif’s innate flair for his craft feels like a breath of fresh air. Born in Alsace, the culinary maverick can’t remember a time when he wasn’t marvelled by the magic that wafted out of his grandmother’s kitchen — so much so that merely reminiscing her culinary finesse even today, evokes a gamut of emotions in him.
Albeit specialising in French cuisine, Nicolas believes he’s not the one to go by the rule book in the kitchen. And his recent two city India tour, All Things Nice, was reflective of the same. Chef Nicolas Durif was awarded the Gault & Millau in 2017 with the Nouvelle Aquitaine Hope Trophy. He won his first Michelin Star in 2018.
DH Living gets chatty with Chef Nicolas Durif, who was in Bengaluru to celebrate French cooking, in collaboration with Chef Sandeep Kalra and the culinary team of Ritz Carlton.
‘India surprises me’
“Coming to Bengaluru has been an emotional shock for me,” begins the chef, enthusing about his recent visit to Bengaluru. “It’s a complete surprise, the ingredients in India are very different from what you get in France. I was startled by the size and quantity of greens used in the dishes here. In France, we could put two kilos of ginger in a dish, meanwhile it’s a far cry in India,” he quips. “The products are nevertheless really fresh and tastes out of this world. Working with the kitchen team has been delightful. I wanted people to explore French cuisine by adding flavours of India — using local ingredients, with a bit of spice while retaining his culinary identity.”
All about improvisation
“I don’t have a staple cuisine — my comfort food is derived from various countries. I try to mix from different countries. It’s all about improvisation. The dishes can change over time. I try to blend different flavours. I also like learning from other chefs. My style of cooking is largely freestyle — there isn’t a set mood, recipe or ingredients.”
The chef also believes that there’s always a touch of Alsacein in his cuisine — more so with his choice of spices and herbs — including hyssop, an aromatic plant which sublimates his dishes and incidentally what his restaurant (L’Hysope) is named after.
When quizzed about what constitutes a happy meal, the Chef says, “It’s important to have a candid demeanour. Don’t take yourself seriously. It’s important to have a good atmosphere. And yes, having a delicious meal made with mindfulness.”
‘I’m not a fan of food trends’
Opining about the global food trends in general, the chef is of the opinion that his cooking isn’t about going with the fad, but rather about going with the flow.
“Trends are created by renowned chefs. There are many chefs who don’t say anything. I don’t personally agree with established trends. Cooking isn’t about trends, it’s about being passionate. I don’t use new inventions. I’m not a fan of big trends. You have to come back to basics. For instance, I use the fermentation technique a lot — and its been around since ages. I won’t ever judge a chef if he used fruits or greens that aren’t in season. Of course, you need to use seasonable produce. But each chef should make their own decisions and follow through with this.”
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