On top of a shrine and a tank

Travel

The road from Bangalore towards Tumkur is strewn with numerous rocky hills on either side. Some are tall and imposing, some are famous with temples. But there are small hillocks too that may not attract your attention at first sight. But a closer look would bring to light a temple or a fort built on them. As you drive closer to Tumkur, among the chain of larger hills is a tiny oblong shaped hillock.

A white strip runs up from the bottom of the hill diagonally which makes it easy to identify from the distance. This is Mandharagiri for you. To reach it an entrance arch with the same name stands at right, after 65 kilometres from the city. Another kilometre into the deviation brings you to the village of Pandithanahalli and a little further to the base of the hillock. Mandharagiri is not just a hill but a place of worship for the Jains.

With a group of four shrines at the top together referred to as the Basadi, Mandharagiri is more popularly called Basadi Betta.

It is also known as Chandraprabha Parvatha after the eighth Jain theerthankara. In the last two years or so, the foothills which used to have just an office, have also undergone a sea change with a wide temple complex added as I noticed during my revisit to the hill.
The manager of the shrine, Sri Parshwanatha Swamy explained about the attractions here.

The life size statue of an elephant with its raised trunk seems as if saluting the hill shrine. A tall stone pillar, the Manasthambha with Chaturmukha bimba at the top is also in the vicinity. But the visitor’s attention is drawn to the 25 ft tall statue of Chandraprabha erected on a sprawling platform.

The highlight of the sculpture is the rare combination of a cow suckling a tiger cub and a tiger feeding a young calf which is symbolic of the harmony among all living beings. The complex also includes facilities to stay and board for the visiting devotees. I was told that the annual fair in January on the eve of birthday celebration of the theerthankara attracts a huge gathering.

Easy climb

At the foot of the hill a series of steps cut out from the rock leads to the top. Though there are as many as 435 steps it is not exhausting because of the easy gradient. As I moved up the steps the small square temple on the right was seen. This is the shrine for Brahma with idol smeared with sindhoor. A leisurely walk up brought me to the main Basadi at the summit. Having taken the keys from the priest at the office below, I could open the door and enter the temple courtyard.

Four similar temples stand together. Two of them are dedicated to Chandraprabha and one each to Parshwantha and Suparshwanatha.

The golden colour of the towers glittered in the bright sun. The images inside these shrines are tiny and simple, but nevertheless attractive. Outside the courtyard I went around the big boulders which have been colourfully painted with the images of lion, cow, the theerthankaras and so on.

Views from the top are panoramic with prominent hills of Devarayana durga and Ramadevara Betta in the northeast. But I went to the eastern side of the basadi to get a view of the large tank called Maidalakere.

Though the waters are ruddy after the rains the tank itself surrounded by a ring of hills makes it a scenic locale. So instead of getting down to the water I chose to sit on the edge and enjoy the picturesque view while a cool breeze caressed me. With no one around the absolute quietness left me greatly refreshed.

As I descended from the hill at the end of a pleasant day, the evening light of the sun cast a mellow lustre on the whole landscape.

Getting there

Driving from Bangalore towards Tumkur ( NH 4), after 65 kilometres an entrance arch is seen at the right through which the road leads to Pandithanahalli and Mandharagiri. Buses from Bangalore and Tumkur go to Pandithanahalli. Autorickshaws are available from the main road or at Pandithanahalli.