Wrap & roll

Kathi rolls started off as a street snack but are now more of a global trend that’s to be savoured on leisure and not on the go, definitely not as a takeaway, writes Ajit Saldanha

How do you select a topic, is a question I am often asked. Tapping the side of one’s nose while mysteriously muttering the word, “sources” is an annoying response, but just happens to be the truth. Obviously one can’t scour hallis and galis in search of greasy spoons recommended by all and sundry. One could land up on the wrong side of the tracks in Fraser Town at ‘Relax Joint’ — I swear it exists. At first, I thought it might be an innovative name for a chiropodist or a local massage parlour, but no, it’s a café serving timepass (sic) items and snacks. In locating good food, an element of discernment is called for and the trick is to know whose advice to follow.

Many moons ago, my then editor, Tushita Mitra, brought me some divine tunde (which spell-check insisted on calling “tuned”) kebabs from Lucknow: one bite and I was hooked for life. I would go so far as to say the experience gave me some insight into why Proust expended 5,000 words on describing Madeleines. I covered the kebabs with foil, placed a pan filled with warm water underneath and put them in the oven for 12 minutes; the result was magical. The balance of flavour, the choice of meat, the grace notes of mace, pepper, cinnamon, the delicate hint of saffron, the contrasting texture and finally the mastery of the noble art of shallow frying all of which combined to create sheer bliss on a plate. Deep frying takes less skill; all you need is a watch, but achieving that perfect golden-brown crust without overcooking the centre calls for a high level of skill and this is precisely the métier of a good khansama making tunde. As even the less modest among you may have gathered, this is not something to be attempted at home but Lazeez does a decent job.

Mamata Didi seems to be the flavour of the month in a manner of speaking and while Lucknow is a purist’s delight, Kolkata goes one step further by taking the best of Mughlai cuisine and giving it a distinctive Calcutta spin, ipp my Bongoli phrends bill phorgibb me. I’m referring to the quintessential Bengali staple, the kathi roll, a perfectly layered, flaky paratha with a faint hint of sweetness, with a lacy frill of beaten egg, stuffed with a spicy mutton filling and a sprinkling of vinegary onions, chopped green chilli and a pinch of chaat masala for that extra mazaa. Serious patrons prefer mutton but one can always choose from egg, chicken or paneer cooked with the chef’s unique blend of chatpata. To deal with post-lockdown paranoia, Sikandar has launched their delivery only service in partnership with dotpe which allows hapless restaurateurs an option to the predatory pricing model followed by some of the other service providers. My good buddy, Gautam Kutty swears by their Andhra chilli chicken rolls while I found the seekh rolls pretty good.

Of course, a kathi roll has to be eaten piping hot since the chef uses ghee and refined oil with such a wild abandon that if you are the takeaway type, your serving dish will probably resemble the Alaskan coastline after the Exxon Valdez ran aground. But if you’re suddenly feeling peckish and wanting to channel your inner Bourdain, here’s a fairly simple version of a kathi roll and let’s push the boat out here and make it with paneer. Figure out the ingredients, buy a pack of chapatis, some pudina chutney and yoghurt and here’s the method.

Heat oil in a non-stick pan. Add one finely sliced onion and some sliced green and yellow capsicum. Add some chopped tomatoes, 1/2 tsp of turmeric powder, ¼ tsp jeera powder, salt to taste and ½ tsp ginger-garlic paste to the pan. Mix well and sauté for 2-3 minutes. Add a splash of tomato puree and some warm water. Mix well and cook on high heat for a minute. Add a dash of garam masala and red chilli flakes. At the last minute add the cubed paneer and toss gently so that it absorbs the flavours. Turn off the heat. On a separate pan, warm up a chapati and spread a spoonful of yoghurt and a teaspoon of pudina chutney evenly on it. Top with the paneer mix, use your judgement and make sure you don’t overload it. Sprinkle a few fresh mint leaves, onion rings, a dash of chaat masala and a squeeze of lime. Roll it up tightly and tuck in the edges. Enjoy!

(The author is an old Bengalurean and impresario of comedy and musical shows who considers himself fortunate to have turned his passions — writing and theatre — into a profession.)