Not a towel to toss off

Turkey towels, are often thought to be the plush, absorbent terry cloth towels, usually made of cotton or cotton-polyester. They are soft but heavy, slow to dry, and may smell in humid climates. However, not all Turkey towels are Turkey towels in the true sense. Turkish towels have qualities that set them apart from what is incorrectly considered the Turkey towel, I learnt on a visit to Istanbul recently. 

In Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar, only a few shops sell Turkey towels. At one such shop under the vaulted roof, Emir, Turkish towel distributor and seller from a family that owns a small cotton farm in Anatolia, shed light on the origin of Turkish towels, and its design details.

Emir explained, “Turkish towels, crafted exclusively from 100% Turkish cotton on Turkish looms, originate from 17th-century Turkish hamams. These bathhouses, renowned for their high humidity and elevated temperatures, make it necessary for towels to be lightweight, quick drying, and have exceptional absorbency.” In Turkey, they are referred to as a peshtemal, while in North Africa, they are known as a fourtha. “These towels are designed longer than typical towels to make it easy to wrap around the body, allowing people using public bathhouses to move around comfortably without concern,” he added.

When asked about the “quick-drying” feature, which differs from terry cotton towels known popularly as ‘Turkey towels’ in India, Emir explained the concept of grams per square meter (GSM), a vital measurement in textiles and paper. “Turkish towels are available in both high and medium GSM options. Typically cotton towels range between 300 and 900 GSM. Towels with higher GSM values are denser, plusher, and more absorbent. 

The highly absorbent towels may take longer to air dry after use, whereas peshtemal towels with 400-500 GSM dry faster, as these push water off the skin instead of taking it in and loosening yarns. Another character that differentiates peshtemal from a terry towel is that they are distinguished by their longer fringes. Hence in reality, not all terry cotton towels are Turkish towels.

Why do peshtemal towels dry quicker?

Emir emphasised that the superior quality of peshtemal towels comes from the use of high-quality Turkish cotton. These extended cotton fibers reduce the need for seams, resulting in Turkish towels that are not only exceptionally soft but also remarkably durable. peshtemal towels, (typically measuring 1.8mx1m), usually have a 400-500 GSM, which makes it a ‘dry quick’ fabric, more durable than regular towels, and lighter than terry towels (more than 700 GSM).

He spoke about the transition from handlooming to machine production in Denizil and Izmir, but emphasised that the intricate fringes are still hand-knotted. 

Reminiscing his childhood in the cotton fields, Emir described how the peshtemal is made: “Usually, they use white warp threads and pair them with soft, pastel-coloured weft threads. The fringes are carefully crafted by knotting the warp threads, giving the towels a unique touch. That’s why most peshtemal towels have white fringes.”

As we purchased a peshtemal, featuring a sleek, lightness, elongated design in calming pastel tones, he mentioned how these towels can be used without extra care and grow increasingly supple, softer, and absorbent after each wash.

The International Cotton Advisory Committee report specifies Turkish cotton’s excellence in the Aegean, Mediterranean, and southeastern Anatolia regions, known for their pure cotton with 30-50% greater durability. 

Peshtemals in hamams

After Emir mentioned Kilic Ali Pasa Hamami in Istanbul, a historic bathhouse dating back to 1583, I visited it in 2018. I was introduced to Turkish hamam towels by a female bathhouse staff, who are called natirs. 

In the changing room, the natir described towels utilised in the hamam “as exceptionally soft, meticulously crafted from pure cotton and coloured with natural pigments to prevent skin irritations.”

The common peshtemal design usually features bicoloured towels adorned with stripes. Talking about the jacquard towels with intricate patterns, the natir clarified that these are pricier. Such towels are typically reserved for occasions like childbirth or weddings and seldom used in hamams.

Turkish towel outside Turkey

Emir highlighted that Turkish towel production has gone beyond Turkey. China and India excel in crafting superior terry towels with higher GSM. Authentic hamam peshtemal, deeply embedded in Turkish tradition, are still manufactured in Turkey using long staple cotton and exported under various brand names to a range of countries.

During a visit to Innsbruck, Austria, in 2022, I found peshtemals in shops. Akida, a salesperson, detailed the crafting of peshtemal by the company where she worked, emphasising on their use of organically grown Pamukkale cotton sourced ethically through Fair Wear Foundation. When asked about the large blanket-like fabrics with fringes, she described their “versatility as beach sarongs, picnic mats, travel blankets, and even as furniture liners due to their softness, and aesthetics”.

On various patterns and designs, she says that herringbone-patterned peshtemals have zigzag or diamond-style designs, adding to their appeal. These are a favourite among folks from Tyrol, as sofa liners and blankets with a size 2m x 2.4m.

“Solid peshtemals with simple stripes can be stonewashed for a vintage look, while honeycomb-woven hamam towels have a gentle, subtly embossed texture,” she says.
Fringes, absorbency, and wrapping length remain constant across all types.