“Of all the gin joints, in all the towns, in all the world, she walks into mine.” This unforgettable line from ‘Casablanca’ (1942), uttered by Rick (Humphrey Bogart) about Isla (Ingrid Bergman), remains one of the most evocative in cinematic history. It proved to be only a precursor for the spread of gin in modern society. Gin has featured prominently in popular culture, whether it was in ‘The Great Gatsby’, ‘Breakfast at Tiffany’s’, Raymond Chandler’s 1953 novel ‘The Long Goodbye’, Philip Larkin’s poem, ‘Sympathy in White Major’, and even as James Bond’s Vesper Martini. It was frequently consumed Upstairs in ‘Downton Abbey’ and Queen Elizabeth II is said to have been partial to it. A fondness for gin, which has been gaining ground as a cool, sophisticated drink, is amply reflected in popular culture globally. Of course, arguably its best-known version — G&T, yes, gin and tonic, was invented in India as a way to make the bitter-tasting quinine — essential to cure malaria — palatable for British soldiers in the 19th century.
While London remains gin’s favourite haunt, its spiritual home, with an astonishing number of brands and establishments concocting ever more inventive beverages to entice the aficionado, India in recent years has seen a spurt in homegrown gin brands, especially craft gin with a heavy accent on botanicals. Karina Aggarwal, founder, Gigglewater Beverage Concepts Ltd, points out the reasons for the fast acceptance of gin, including “flavourful gin is compared to vodka”, along with the emergence of craft gin makers in India, who she says pushed the beverage into “high gear, followed by bartenders starting to reimagine gin cocktails.”
A popular choice
A pioneer in the space has been the Goa-based Stranger & Sons. “Made from inherently Indian botanicals, Stranger & Sons Gin captures the essence of contemporary India in every bottle for the curious and discerning consumer,” says Sakshi Saigal, who started the venture along with partners Rahul Mehra and Vidur Gupta in 2018.
Indeed, in a predominantly brown spirits market, gin is increasingly growing in popularity, especially amongst the almost totally urban audience. “Gin has caught the attention of consumers in India,” says Mehra. “I think the abundance of botanicals available locally — so many amazing herbs, roots, spices and citrus to choose from — is what’s really unique and special about Indian gin.
Anand Virmani, co-founder and CEO, Nao Spirits says there are a lot of factors driving the rise in popularity of gin at the moment. “It has definitely been the trending spirit across the world this past decade and social media has played a major part in bringing the love for this spirit to India. In this time, bars across India have also “upped their game” and begun taking their cocktail programmes seriously.” Rick’s, the cocktail lounge, at Delhi’s Taj Mahal hotel, has just reopened with heavy stress on gin-based cocktails.
As a day-drinking spirit, it attracts a lot of people who are laidback and want to sip on spirits while they chill during the day, on a vacation, at a brunch and so on, adds Sahil Adwalpalkar, founder, Satiwa Alco Bev. “With a variety of options like juniper-forward, citrus-forward or fruity undertones, gin lovers have a lot to experience.”
The Indian gin market is presently thriving, particularly among the young and aspirational demographic, who are eagerly embracing new and modern spirits, with gin leading the way, according to Amar Sinha, Chief Operating Officer, Radico Khaitan Ltd. “The evolving urban lifestyle has created a demand for sophisticated and premium beverages, sparking innovation in taste, flavours, and packaging within the gin industry.”
Happy time
The focus on classic cocktails has brought back the spotlight on classics like martinis, negronis and gimlets, all of which use gin as a base, adds Virmani. “This calls for high-quality gin obviously and this is where craft gin has been able to step in and find a space for itself.” While international labels such as Hendrick’s Gin, Bombay Sapphire, Monkey 47, Beefeater and Tanqueray have long been popular, Indian gins seem to capture the imagination, especially for those looking for new flavours.
The emerging trends include flavoured gins, clarified cocktails, highball style drinks, spirit-forward cocktails, ready-to-drink gin cocktails, low ABV gin cocktails or the classic gin and tonic, points out Adwalpalkar. “People are also fascinated by the origin of the gin, the key botanicals involved (hemp, in our case) and the type of gin.”
New brands seem to be launching with greater frequency. Radico Khaitan, makers of Jaisalmer Indian Craft Gin, have just introduced a new addition to its premium segment — Happiness in a Bottle: A Happily Crafted Gin, a collection of botanical blends termed ‘Joy of Juniper’, ‘Joy of Pink’, and ‘Joy of Citrus’.
As for who’s opting for gin, Virmani says it’s truly hard to say. “Our thinking initially was that it was mainly the younger consumer below the age of 30. It’s likely at least that this is where the conversation around gin started, but at this point, we are just as likely to see a 55-year-old drink a gin as a 25-year-old. Also, there is no gender bias whatsoever. There seem to be just as many men as women enjoying their gins at the moment.” An unexpected, unusual marker for greater equality, gin in India only looks to keep pace with India’s opening up.
The Indian gin market
The India gin market is estimated to account for around $278.5 million in terms of value in 2018 and it is predicted to grow at five per cent during 2019-2027 and is estimated to reach around $ 413.7 million by the end of 2027, according to a report by Coherent Market Insights. According to Virmani, the gin market in India, about 1 percent of the spirit segment, is dominated by the value and low-price category but the real growth is in the premium and standard segments currently dominated by imported brands.
Top 10 gin-based cocktails
While the world is awash in gin-based cocktails, it’s the ingredients that make the difference
- Bramble (gin, sugar syrup, lemon juice, crème de mure, berries or lemon zest)
- El Chapo (gin, strawberries, Aperol, grapefruit beer)
- French 75 (gin, orange liqueur, lemon juice, sugar, fizz of your choice)
- Gimlet (lime juice, simple syrup, gin)
- Gin-gin mule (gin, lime juice, syrup, mint, ginger beer)
- G&T (gin, tonic water, lime slice)
- Martini (gin, dry vermouth, lemon peel)
- Negroni (gin, sweet vermouth, Campari, peeled orange zest)
- Southside (gin, lime juice, sugar syrup, mint leaves)
- Tom Collins (gin, lemon juice, syrup, club soda, lemon wheel, maraschino cherry)
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