Memories of Kullu Dussehra

RIGHT IN THE MIDDLE

Although I am not a cultural anthropologist, I have an innate inquisitiveness to dig deep into the cultural heritage of different places. During the last visit to my favourite hill-station Kullu, I had no inkling of the cultural bonanza that awaited me.

I landed in my guesthouse on the eve of the Kullu Dussehra. Due to my frequent visits to the valley, I had befriended many locals. My friend Chaman, the owner of the guesthouse, offered to take me to the Dussehra Mela.

I was amazed, only a day before my visit, the festival of Dussehra had come to a culmination across India. So, what festive fair was my genteel host inviting me to?

To dispel my confusion, my friend informed me that as per an ossified custom, a week-long celebration of the Dussehra festival occurs in Kullu just as the festival comes to a close elsewhere in India. I had heard about the popularity of Kullu Dussehra before but was unaware of the mysterious rites and rituals that unfold here.

The very mention of Dussehra evokes the images of the gigantic burning effigies of Ravana. With similar expectations, I reached the famous Dhalpur Maidan to view another instance of effigy-burning and was simply mesmerised by the grand festival.

In the next moment, we bowed our heads and withdrew to make way for the exquisitely bedecked chariot of Lord Raghunath, thousands of hands reverentially pulling it towards a magnificent canopy.

I craned my neck, eager to catch a glimpse of every corner, and found hundreds of multi-coloured, elegantly, elaborately decorated palanquins of many gods and goddess, swirling in the air as it were.

A sense of divinity overwhelmed me and the dormant devotee in me stood transfixed in supplication. On the auspicious arrival of the presiding deity— Raghunath— also the host of the other gods, the ambience became transcendental. The symmetry of the nimble moves of the local ‘Nati’ dancers delighted every eye.

The main stage was also set ablaze by a melange of cultural programmes. As the sun gave way to the moon, the festival enthralled with a spectacle of lights, spreading their rich refulgence.

The palate-tickling buffet of local cuisine had assembled at the fair, here mellifluous notes blended with the beats of drums and conch, presenting a soul-soothing medley of music.

This week-long fest dates back to the 17th century and is mythologically associated with the act of atonement performed by King Jagat Singh.

He brought the idol of Lord Raghunath from the city of Ayodhya and thereafter surrendered his kingdom to the custody of the deity.

Since then, Lord Raghunath has loomed large in the consciousness of Kullu.