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Modish, chic juttis that stand reinvented with extra inches, tassels, embroidery, lace, silks and sequins, are replacing ones that were made in leather.
The traditional Indian footwear is now sporting dynamic designs, structured engineering and functional comfort, making it an option for casual wear and special occasions.
Divaesque designs
The jutti gained popularity in the 1600s when it was introduced in India by the Mughals and became extremely popular amongst the royals. Today, the jutti is a shoe closet staple. It is the complete makeover of the classic cut as the sheer versatility of the khussa (a style of Punjabi handcrafted footwear) makes it a perfect, comfortable choice for all.
Everyone cannot wear heels either. Laksheeta Govil, founder of Fizzy Goblet, an eight-year-old jutti company, says, “The idea is to take the traditional silhouette and make it super comfortable, with extra padding and contemporary designs. Once our juttis became synonymous with stylish comfort, we combined two silhouettes in sneaker juttis and loafer juttis, and pioneered mojari heels with a modern take on ethnic craftsmanship, while bringing in age-old craft techniques like tie-dye, mirror-work, and weaving and reinventing them to suit the demands of modern women.”
At Fizzy Goblet, classic techniques and materials have been translated into some designs, such as spotlighting crochet, raffia, cross-stitch, blanket-stitch, 3D, weaving and macramé, and other such techniques and materials, she shares. The company has focused on reviving hand painting in footwear too.
The collaboration with Tribe Amrapali earlier used seven charms, including Evil Eye, and Yin Yang in a capsule collection too. Centuries-old craft forms are being revived in contemporary cuts of mojaris. Wildflowers, pleating, and soft patterns can be seen in the Summer 22’ collection of Needledust. Shirin Mann, founder and creative head of Needledust, says, “Our Wilderness jutti has been one of our most beautiful, satisfying design processes till date. It is made with real wildflowers: a mix of handpicked and handpressed blooms, carefully secured on a natural muslin base, by our design team. The flowers are then lined with a sheer fabric, creating a glazed shield, locking in the flowers between two layers, helping retain their natural shape without any withering.”
The piece is then carefully sewed by skilled artisans to make an exquisite shoe. The brand’s Instagram page showcases the process captured on video.
Engineering the cut
Joining the revolution step by step is the desire to design and develop contours that are flattering and functional in form for the feet. The ancient craft of shoemaking has been reinvented and restructured into comfortable pieces for tiny tots, adults, and the elderly.
“Balancing aesthetics with engineering is interesting. Like incorporating crochet, a beautiful aesthetic that cannot be cut into a design is a challenge. It takes a minimum of 60 hours of craftsmanship per pair. Shaping 3D designs, incorporating motifs, and crafting flowers, are meticulous processes,” explains Laksheeta.
The double cushioning at the base of the juttis brings in added comfort. Adding fabrics like silks, organic cottons, linen, tissue, and organza, will make these designs stand out, says Akanksha Chhabra, co-founder, Pastels and Pop.
“Embellishments including handcut sequins, Czech glass beads, delicate pearls, colourful anchor threads, and vivid beads elevate our designs in addition to zardosi, tassels, knot embroidery, and mirror embroidery in our collections,” she elaborates.
The last collection played up to fashion designer Anushree Reddy’s lehengas, sharing zardozi work. The summer collection brings in a flush rush of metal beads, gota, and crystals to speak the language of luxury. The ‘Spring Fling’ collection has kantha embroidery in the entire base of the jutti, with trims in pom-poms and tassels in a riot of colours.
“It takes four months to get the material and placement right. Embroidering takes up to 24 hours per design and once done, is pasted on the uppers. The soles are cushioned and the jutti stitching takes another two days,” explains Akanksha.
While fuchsia pops, mango yellows, candy floss and sorbet colours will grab your attention, nudes in champagne hues are a favourite too. “Another hot pick this season is customisation. People are getting colour and combinations that go with the decor and theme,” sums up Akanksha.
What makes these juttis special?
The nouveau mojaris are a hot sell-out compared to the simple versions earlier:
Modish, revivalist artisanal footwear combine traditional craft with new motifs and designs
A rich expression of made-in-India crafts and techniques
Have 3D sequins, zari, dabka, dry flowers to ikat, pearl-work, tassels and ghunghroos,and fine detailing
Softer U-shaped panja saves toe-chafing
Sheer versatility — can be worn with both Western and Indian clothes
Price points
Juttis start at Rs 750 for simpler designs to Rs 6,000 for handcrafted designer picks that match occasions or wedding themes.