Vaishali S shows maiden prêt line at Milan Fashion Week

The designer became the first Indian woman designer to showcase her line at the event

Credit: Vaishali S

Credit: Vaishali S

After taking the ramps of New York and Paris, designer Vaishali S made a splash at the ongoing Milan Fashion Week as the only Indian woman designer to have showcased at the event. On February 25, she showcased her A/W '22 collection, "Srauta", at Milan's iconic Palazzo Durini. The showcase of 40 garments marked the designer's foray into prêt-à-porter.

Vaishali S played up her core strengths in Indian handwoven textiles and structured silhouettes. The garments featured the designer's signature cording and textures and came alive in rich aquamarines, ruby reds, amethysts, pearly whites, jade greens, and slate greys.

"Srauta" means "sacrifice" in Sanskrit. The collection is inspired by how one form sacrifices itself to come to life into another, like strands of hair turn into threads before metamorphosing as fabric.

We spoke to Vaishali S about her new collection, her commitment to sustainability and what it means for her to be back in Milan, the city that taught her the essence of fashion.

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Your forte has been haute couture; what made you launch your prêt-à-porter line at Milan Fashion Week?

Milan and prêt have always been on my mind. While couture is about freedom of expression and, at times, pure ecstasy, prêt requires a balancing act of creativity with wearability and saleability. I don't find prêt restrictive; it's just an expansion within a specific boundary. My creations will now not just be admired but more easily worn. I am also furthering my cause of making Indian weaves more widely known and appreciated.

What does showing at Milan Fashion Week mean to you?

After Paris, Milan is the other capital of world fashion, with a very discerning audience and an approach to fashion that is more inclined towards prêt-à-porter. Moreover, Milan is where I did my post-graduation in fashion, and it is my partner, Alessandro Giuliani's native city. So it was a kind of homecoming to show off our precious Indian weaves and how we have given them a global language.

How have you incorporated weaves into your A/W '22 collection, "Srauta"?

I had to develop special weaves for winter; I didn't want to lose the lightness of my weaves for the sake of warmth, nor the support of my favourite weavers. That is why I worked on developing Merino wool and Pashmina on handlooms. The result is a fine and light weave that is extremely warm.

Who are your target customers for the prêt line?

My target client differs according to geographies; generally, someone who appreciates heritage, and sustainability and is willing to experiment with something modern and global.

How have you ensured sustainability, zero wastage, and circularity with this line?

I have continued pursuing my sustainability goals with circularity, zero wastage and social impact. We used blockchain technology to guarantee the technical traceability of a garment. I travelled to places like Ladakh and Uttar Pradesh to get certificates of authenticity and photographs and saved every minute detail on the blockchain so that the client may track the genesis of the garment from fibre to fabric with a scan of a QR code.

I have also continued my joint project with VIBRAM soles. Together, we have developed a sustainable shoe made with the leftovers of the "Srauta" collection, whose sole is 96 per cent recycled. The shoe's upper part can be detached and changed without throwing away the entire shoe.

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