<p><em>By Karishma Vaswani</em></p><p>Retailing for as little as $10, India’s beloved Kolhapuri sandals are a staple in wardrobes across the sub-continent. So when luxury brand <a href="https://www.deccanherald.com/india/maharashtra/kolhapuris-get-prada-makeover-at-rs-12-lakh-wheres-the-credit-fume-activists-3607671">Prada SpA </a>debuted a new type of footwear at Milan Fashion Weekthat bore a stark resemblance to them, it didn’t take long for the fury to build online.</p><p>The saga underscores how much power the South Asian giant’s digital tribe holds, where online outrage regularly influences public debate — especially when citizens perceive their heritage is under attack. International firms eyeing one of the world’s fastest-growing markets should weigh the risks of these cultural missteps. </p><p>The Italian fashion house’s troubles began when it introduced its menswear collection in June. The sandals, described as “leather footwear,” displayed an open-toe braided pattern that was strikingly similar to Kolhapuri sandals made in the Indian states of Maharashtra and Karnataka. (Your columnist has several pairs of Kolhapuris in her wardrobe.) </p><p>Historically, the sandals were produced for specific communities. For farmers who worked in the fields, they were robust and able to withstand wear-and-tear; for the courtier class and nobles they were more delicate and ostentatious. In 2019, the footwear was awarded the Geographical Indication status, viewed as a mark of authenticity. (Other Indian items to have received this tag include Darjeeling tea and Alphonso mangoes.)</p>.Andhra farmers urge TTD to procure mangoes amid severe financial distress.<p>But Prada didn’t credit India for the designs, prompting a brutal social media backlash. The nationalistic sentiment whipped up by this controversy boosted sales of the traditional sandals. The country’s online community is renowned for its digital ferocity — it accused the brand of cultural appropriation, and the furor forced the fashion house into damage control mode. It issued a statement saying it recognized the sandals were inspired by traditional Indian footwear. </p><p>The luxury brand’s experience is a reminder that in India, foreign firms have to be aware of how reputational risk could affect future revenue. Internet penetration is rising, with 55% of the population connected. Social media is growing fast, too: It’s estimated the world’s most populous nation is home to 462 million social media users. </p><p>India is a rising global power, one international brands are keen to break into. But local and foreign firms face various challenges: Bureaucracy, shoddy infrastructure and unique consumer behaviors that include a fierce defense of India’s rich heritage. All of these factors require a tailored approach. </p><p>Success in the market lies in the ability to balance local authenticity and global appeal — and the willingness to “learn to love and speak to India,” as Francois Grouiller, chief executive officer of the luxury consultancy IndLux recently noted. </p><p>Foreign brands can’t afford to ignore India’s luxury market, which reached $7.74 billion in 2023, and is projected to approach $12 billion by 2028, a recent Kearney report notes. Other estimates predict the sector could more than triple by 2030, growing to upward of $85 billion. The number of ultra-high-net-worth individuals — people with a net worth of at least $30 million — is expected to grow by 50% by 2028. </p><p>These forecasts come with the obvious caveats — most notably, there is still a huge wealth gap in the country. While the 100 million wealthiest people are splurging, 400 million of their middle-class counterparts have cut back. Global economic conditions are becoming less supportive, as US President Donald Trump’s sweeping tariffs fuel trade tensions and put pressure on future growth. </p><p>Still, viewing consumers as a long-term opportunity rather than just a short-term play would help these firms thrive. Even more important is understanding that India is home to a diverse market with distinct needs. Some brands have grasped this already — high-end jeweler Bulgari SpA offers a pricey Mangalsutra necklace inspired by a chain traditionally worn by married women — tapping into the desire for luxury with home-grown sensibilities. </p><p>The Italian brand is not the first — and neither will it be the last — to fall foul of cultural norms. Earlier this year, Gucci made the mistake of calling Bollywood star Alia Bhatt’s custom-made sari-lehenga (a fusion of the traditional sari with a long skirt) a gown. Another online frenzy was set off in May, when a viral social media trend was criticized for calling the dupatta — a traditional South Asian shawl — a Scandinavian scarf.</p><p>Prada doesn’t own any retail stores in India, depending instead on the super-rich diaspora and wealthy Indians who travel overseas. But the firm — which has seen its shares lose about 30% since February as investors took fright at its purchase of Versace — isn’t taking any chances. In a conciliatory move, it’s now working with traditional artisans to understand the history behind the famed Kolhapuris. </p><p>The luxury fashion house has learned the hard way that cultural fluency is no longer a “nice to have”— it’s central to business survival. </p>
<p><em>By Karishma Vaswani</em></p><p>Retailing for as little as $10, India’s beloved Kolhapuri sandals are a staple in wardrobes across the sub-continent. So when luxury brand <a href="https://www.deccanherald.com/india/maharashtra/kolhapuris-get-prada-makeover-at-rs-12-lakh-wheres-the-credit-fume-activists-3607671">Prada SpA </a>debuted a new type of footwear at Milan Fashion Weekthat bore a stark resemblance to them, it didn’t take long for the fury to build online.</p><p>The saga underscores how much power the South Asian giant’s digital tribe holds, where online outrage regularly influences public debate — especially when citizens perceive their heritage is under attack. International firms eyeing one of the world’s fastest-growing markets should weigh the risks of these cultural missteps. </p><p>The Italian fashion house’s troubles began when it introduced its menswear collection in June. The sandals, described as “leather footwear,” displayed an open-toe braided pattern that was strikingly similar to Kolhapuri sandals made in the Indian states of Maharashtra and Karnataka. (Your columnist has several pairs of Kolhapuris in her wardrobe.) </p><p>Historically, the sandals were produced for specific communities. For farmers who worked in the fields, they were robust and able to withstand wear-and-tear; for the courtier class and nobles they were more delicate and ostentatious. In 2019, the footwear was awarded the Geographical Indication status, viewed as a mark of authenticity. (Other Indian items to have received this tag include Darjeeling tea and Alphonso mangoes.)</p>.Andhra farmers urge TTD to procure mangoes amid severe financial distress.<p>But Prada didn’t credit India for the designs, prompting a brutal social media backlash. The nationalistic sentiment whipped up by this controversy boosted sales of the traditional sandals. The country’s online community is renowned for its digital ferocity — it accused the brand of cultural appropriation, and the furor forced the fashion house into damage control mode. It issued a statement saying it recognized the sandals were inspired by traditional Indian footwear. </p><p>The luxury brand’s experience is a reminder that in India, foreign firms have to be aware of how reputational risk could affect future revenue. Internet penetration is rising, with 55% of the population connected. Social media is growing fast, too: It’s estimated the world’s most populous nation is home to 462 million social media users. </p><p>India is a rising global power, one international brands are keen to break into. But local and foreign firms face various challenges: Bureaucracy, shoddy infrastructure and unique consumer behaviors that include a fierce defense of India’s rich heritage. All of these factors require a tailored approach. </p><p>Success in the market lies in the ability to balance local authenticity and global appeal — and the willingness to “learn to love and speak to India,” as Francois Grouiller, chief executive officer of the luxury consultancy IndLux recently noted. </p><p>Foreign brands can’t afford to ignore India’s luxury market, which reached $7.74 billion in 2023, and is projected to approach $12 billion by 2028, a recent Kearney report notes. Other estimates predict the sector could more than triple by 2030, growing to upward of $85 billion. The number of ultra-high-net-worth individuals — people with a net worth of at least $30 million — is expected to grow by 50% by 2028. </p><p>These forecasts come with the obvious caveats — most notably, there is still a huge wealth gap in the country. While the 100 million wealthiest people are splurging, 400 million of their middle-class counterparts have cut back. Global economic conditions are becoming less supportive, as US President Donald Trump’s sweeping tariffs fuel trade tensions and put pressure on future growth. </p><p>Still, viewing consumers as a long-term opportunity rather than just a short-term play would help these firms thrive. Even more important is understanding that India is home to a diverse market with distinct needs. Some brands have grasped this already — high-end jeweler Bulgari SpA offers a pricey Mangalsutra necklace inspired by a chain traditionally worn by married women — tapping into the desire for luxury with home-grown sensibilities. </p><p>The Italian brand is not the first — and neither will it be the last — to fall foul of cultural norms. Earlier this year, Gucci made the mistake of calling Bollywood star Alia Bhatt’s custom-made sari-lehenga (a fusion of the traditional sari with a long skirt) a gown. Another online frenzy was set off in May, when a viral social media trend was criticized for calling the dupatta — a traditional South Asian shawl — a Scandinavian scarf.</p><p>Prada doesn’t own any retail stores in India, depending instead on the super-rich diaspora and wealthy Indians who travel overseas. But the firm — which has seen its shares lose about 30% since February as investors took fright at its purchase of Versace — isn’t taking any chances. In a conciliatory move, it’s now working with traditional artisans to understand the history behind the famed Kolhapuris. </p><p>The luxury fashion house has learned the hard way that cultural fluency is no longer a “nice to have”— it’s central to business survival. </p>