Mysore's vanishing heritage

Mysore has become famous as a heritage city. Recognising its heritage character, Government of India is offering financial assistance under the Jawaharlal Nehru National Urban Reconstruction Mission (JNNURM) so that the old royal city might become an important heritage city in India.

Cities similar to Mysore have protected their heritage with care and attention. Here, I remember the friendly 14th century Malacca city in Malaysia which had links with India as a trading route for spices and which has earned UNESCO recognition as a world heritage site.

But sadly, Mysore seems to be losing its soul, its character as a royal city with heritage value.

This characteristic feature of Mysore is being destroyed over the years. A lack of historical sense, for which we Indians are well known, is causing irreparable loss to Mysore, erasing landmarks of the past. Command of the bureaucracy seems to override public opinion, transparency in such schemes totally missing.

While planning or executing new schemes, authorities are failing to take the citizens into confidence. The Department of Archaeology & Museums and the Directorate of Heritage, the two agencies which should be concerned about Mysore’s historical past, are mutely witnessing the damage that is being caused.

Comments posted in Facebook reveal anger and anguish of concerned citizens over projects like ‘Rajpath’ which are causing damage to Mysore. “Unfortunate. So much of inbuilt anger and a feeling of helplessness. As mute spectators we watch the city slowly coming apart!!” reads a comment.

Take the example of Sayaji Rao Road. This road has a historical past. Around a century and half ago, it formed part of a huge canal, which had turned into an unhygienic drainage that was spreading disease in then small city of Mysore. Dewan Purnaiah’s 48-mile canal project to bring Cauvery water to Mysore had failed.

This open ditch was closed and converted into a modern thoroughfare by then Maharaja  and it was named in honour of the Maharaja of Baroda, Sayajirao Gaekwad, when he visited Mysore as a royal guest. He in turn named a road in Baroda in honour of the Mysore Maharaja when he visited Baroda in 1888.

Sayaji Rao Road subsequently became the Vijaya Dasami procession route, replacing the congested commercial centre, Doddapete or present Asoka Road.

Erasing history
The Mysore Maharajas had cordial relations with the Baroda rulers. Impressed over the manner in which the Mysore rulers had developed their city with careful planning, Maharaja Sayajirao followed the model of Mysore in developing Baroda. Now, the civic authorities are erasing this history. They are doing away with the historical name of ‘Sayaji Rao Road’ and rechristening it as ‘Rajpath’ spending crores of rupees.

The road that stands as a mark of friendship between the two princely States is being paradoxically transformed into a ‘Rajpath’ at a time when there are no ‘Rajas’!
Similarly, during the recent demolition drive of footpath structures, though welcome, authorities showed little concern for a 200-year-old historical landmark though small in size.

The stone that was erected by Maharani Vanivilasa Sannidhana, while she was Regent between 1894 and 1902 during the minority of her son Krishnaraja Wodeyar IV, was demolished, despite local residents pleading with the demolition squad at the ‘Sadvidya School’ corner, in Agaram Rangaiah Circle, not to damage it.

This stone marked the boundary of then Mysore. After building the Ramavilasa Agrahara, the Regent had erected this boundary stone (‘Vamana Mudre Kallu’) to mark the western end of Mysore. Seethavilasa Agrahara came up subsequently. Some one had converted this into a small shrine and he was quietly pocketing the money the passers-by offered there. The authorities could have spared this historical landmark, while removing the structure around it.

Similar damages have occurred at many other places too. We all know about the fate of historical structures like the Purnaiah Choultry, Tipu Sultan Palace and recently o a heritage building in Nazarbad. Many others have disappeared over the years, and many more heritage buildings remain neglected. It is also well known how restoration of the name of ‘Vani Vilasa Road’ had to be fought in the court.

According to a report, there is also a move to demolish the old Sufi saint Dargah behind the Lok Ayukta bungalow, which stands as a testimony to Hindu-Muslim amity in the area.
Mysore’s heritage is gradually vanishing into pages of history, sadly.