JOIN USWho does not know about the famed Kolhapuri chappals that are preferred by celebrities and common people alike. But few know that these chappals, that derive their name from Kolhapur in Maharashtra, are mainly produced in the towns and villages of Belagavi district.
These leather chappals, known for their unique designs, comfort and eco-friendliness are mainly manufactured in Athani, Madbhavi, Nippani, Sankeshwar, Ugar, Ainapur, Belagavi and some other villages of the district. It is a popular cottage industry here and these crafted sandals are sold at retail shops in Kolhapur.
For all ‘walks’ of life
Traditionally, these chappals were worn by royal patrons of Kolhapur but today, they have been reinvented to cater to the fashion-conscious world. The unique technique that goes into the making of Kolhapuri chappals is said to be introduced by cobblers of Kolhapur in the 13th century. These sturdy sandals that have the ability to withstand extreme heat were worn by soldiers in forests.
Later in the 19th century, this type of footwear was introduced in Mumbai by the Saudagar family of Kolhapur, which redesigned it with better features. Soon, a major retailer in the city started marketing these products. The demand soared in no time and the Saudagar family had to expand their manufacturing unit. They hired some cobblers from nearby villages and from Athani and bestowed on them the art of making these footwears. Thus evolved a bond between the artisans of Belagavi and sandals of Kolhapuri.
Since then, these chappals have survived for nearly 800 years and have carved a niche in the industry. Though not learnt or taught in a formal way, the knowledge has been kept alive over many generations by the artisans. With the passage of time, Athani became home to these leather chappals with people from Samgar community mastering the art.
The speciality of these chappals is that it is totally hand-made, manufactured without the use of a single nail and are light-weight. Initially, the chappals had two prominent ear like structures and were therefore known as Kaanwalis, meaning having ears. They were usually named after the village in which they were made.
The process of making this chappal is also distinct. Chandrakanth Gopal Chauhan, a cobbler from Belagavi who is into manufacturing Kolhapuri chappals for 40 years explains, “Buffalo or bull hide is preferred. Presently, we get processed leather from Chennai. It is even made locally. First, the leather is made conducive for chappal making After the leather is ready, the shape of the chappal is cut with the help of a template and no moulds are used. Then the sole and the upper part are hand-stitched using leather chord. Belts are embellished with gold zari, tassels(gonda), etc., to give a royal look. Belts of women’s chappals are decorated with beads, stones, etc. In the end, greasing is done to maintain the smoothness.”
Catering to the needs
Today, the Shetkari design is most popular among farmers. This design is best suited for farms as they are strong. Crushed seeds of a local tree called vinchu are filled in the space between the upper and bottom sole. This gives a unique crackling sound that is said to scare away reptiles in the fields. However, there are twisted designs which suit formal and ethnic wears.
There are sandals, shoes, mojadis and other forms of the footwear which are quite more improvised than the original chappals. To make the chappals look more attractive, coloured leather is being used of late.
Natural Dyes are used to colour the leather which is then used in creative forms based on the craftsmanship of the cobbler. The leather absorbs the colour evenly, giving it a vibrant look.
In India, the highest demand for these chappals is in Hyderabad followed by
Maharashtra and north Karnataka. Many young entrepreneurs and designers have joined hands to revive the art form, by supporting the artisans and facilitating smooth transition of the demand for these chappals from local to global. Such efforts ensure that these leather masterpieces continue to be the fashion staple of all sections of the society.