It will not be an exaggeration if I say that a trip to Jaipur is incomplete without a visit to the Amer Fort. Built in the 17th century, it reflects the culture, power, royalty and the religious tolerance of the Rajput dynasty. A few kilometres from the main city, this was home to the Rajput kings before they shifted their base to the new palace, around which Jaipur city was built.
I travelled in December, when the weather was pleasant, air crisp and the breeze cool, even at mid noon. A perfect weather to walk around and explore the beauty of the old fort. As I approached the fort, I could see its extent, covering a massive distance of 12 kilometres, looking majestic against the backdrop of the Aravalli Range.
Timeless magnificence
There are 2 ways of reaching the entrance of the fort. The first one is how the maharajas did in ancient times — ride on top of an elephant, which, with all its grandeur, will slowly sway its way along the rugged stony path and reach the central courtyard. The second one is to drive in a jeep along the winding paths till the entrance of the fort, from where a short walk will lead to the courtyard. Entering the courtyard transported me back to the Rajput era. I could imagine the royals seated on the decorated elephants, women clad in bright, colourful Rajasthani attire going about their routines, commoners entering through the opposite entryway for their various duties, all against the grandeur of this beautiful sandstone-marble courtyard, lined with the fort walls with arched windows and rounded domes. What was once a stable in the raja’s years, is now a ticket counter.
Walking further up, I was mesmerised by every building that came my way. I first reached the Diwan-e-Aam, where the kings used to discuss the problems of the common man and entertain their queries. The architecture is a beautiful blend of the Muslim Mughal and the Hindu Rajput styles, due to matrimonial alliances and religious tolerance expressed by the Rajputs. I could see this beautiful amalgamation of both styles in structures as simple as a sandstone pillar. While the upper part of the pillar has the face of an elephant symbolising Hindu style, the lower half has a carving of a lotus in full bloom, typical of Islamic architecture.
A few steps ahead was the Ganesh Pol, the entrance to the palace where the royals lived. The domes and arches reflect the Mughal architecture, while the paintings adorning the walls have pictures of Lord Ganesha. I could not stop admiring the beautiful paintings adorning this façade. The colours, derived from vegetable dyes, remain intact even after all these centuries, looking bright against the sandstone and white marble.
Union of cultures
My guide reminded me that there was lot to be seen inside the palace walls. The illuminating Sheesh Mahal, the hall of mirrors, made of convex mirrors arranged in floral motifs, is not only a visual treat, but it also served as a heater, warming up the place in cold Jaipur winters with lit candles, the light of which would get reflected by the multiple mirrors.
Another interesting structure, which caught my attention, was a concealed tunnel. It was not an escape route, but a concealed path for the queens to go from one part of the palace to another, as women were fiercely protected and guarded.
Walking through the tunnel, I reached the Sukh Niwas. This structure had huge dome-shaped water tanks on the roof attached to narrow-fenestrated copper pipes, through which water trickled at regular intervals, serving as a natural air-conditioner in the summer months.
Heading back to the exit, I continued to be in awe of all the big and small things that came in my way — the huge iron pots used to cook rice, the small scientifically designed honeycombed windows which cool the air, the snake charmer trying to make the snake move to his tunes, and vendors selling colourful traditional turbans.
My short walk had ended, but the richness, culture and the colours of the era, are things I will always remember. The Rajasthani folk song “Kesariya” continued to ring in my ears.