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The growing appeal of banana fibre

The process of turning banana fibre into yarns is quite laborious. There are plenty of banana plantations in and around Anegundi
Last Updated 12 April 2024, 22:18 IST

The banana fibre is being increasingly used to make eco-friendly products. The raw material is going into the making of home decor, apparel and fashion accessories. Think of rugs, bags and jeans. 

Recently, it was even used to heal wounds. Scientists at the Institute of Advanced Study in Science and Technology (IASST), an autonomous institute under the department of science and technology, Assam, repurposed banana pseudostems into eco-friendly wound dressing material. A pseudostem appears like a stem but is a part of the leaf system.

As per the ICAR-National Research Centre for Banana, Trichy, banana farming generates a significant amount of biomass, mainly from the pseudostem and peduncle. Together, they make up 40 per cent of the total plant biomass after a harvest season. 

 This presents a substantial potential for extracting natural fibres from bananas because India is the world’s largest banana producer. Traditional varieties like red banana, nendran, and poovan are suited for the task because of their tensile strength.

Approximately one kilo of banana fibre can be extracted from the stems of 15-20 plants. 

Growing inventory

On a visit to The Kishkinda Trust in Anegundi, Karnataka, I met Nandini N. She is the craft manager at the Trust’s Common Facility Centre. She said they employ 250-300 local women who make hundreds of products using banana fibre. These include door mats, floor carpets, table runners, baskets, wall hangings, planter coverings, handbags, trays, bowls, coasters, and pouches. 

All work is done by hand. Nandini pointed out an 8x4 feet floor mat and said, “A crocheted mat of this size requires about 2,500 metres of fibre and 9 hours to complete.” 

Laborious extraction

The process of turning banana fibre into yarns is quite laborious. There are plenty of banana plantations in and around Anegundi. Once the banana is harvested, these women extract the dried stems. 

“They soak these stems in water overnight until they soften and then slice them into thinner fragments. Each fragment is then rolled on a textured rubber mat in such a way that they intertwine. You can add fragments on the tips and roll them to make the final strands longer,” she explained. Items like dolls require thinner fibre versus baskets that use thicker fibres. Thicker fibres can be achieved by rubbing more strands together. 

These strands are completely dried and handed over to the artisans for crocheting.

Tools used

Mehboobi, a senior artisan at the Trust, was crafting a banana fibre bag using a needle. “We use needles similar to what we use in woollen crocheting, along with a measuring tape and scissors. And if we make a spherical product, for instance, we use a plastic kodapana as a base and crochet around it,” she shared. A kodapana is a pot with a narrow neck. It is used for drawing water from a well or storing water. 

To add stiffness to a crochet product, they braid over thin steel wires using banana fibre. “This ensures durability and maintains the desired shape,” explains Mehboobi.

Colour theory

I met another artisan, Mumtaz. She was holding a bundle of beetroot-coloured banana ropes. She walked me through the dyeing process. She said, “The natural shade of a banana fibre depends on the plant it is extracted from. So it can vary from off-white to yellowish-brown and cream to dull yellow. We usually work with the original colour but if a custom order requires a different colour, we use organic dye. For instance, we use kaachu to impart a dark beetroot hue to the fibre.” Kaachu is a local name for Cutch dye, derived from the wood of the Acacia catechu tree.”

Sometimes they work with a mix of raw materials to achieve different textures. Beads sourced from the Vaijayanti plant are often used to decorate banana fibre lamps, placemats and other decor. The beads are greyish-white in colour and are commonly used to make a japamala (a loop of prayer beads). 

Back to the Trust. Mubeena, another artisan, was crafting Hanuman dolls with a blend of cotton fabric with banana fibres. She said, “We use woollen threads to make the eyes, nose, and swollen jaws of the doll. To add a pop of colour to table runners, carpets, coasters or mats, we repurpose old cotton fabric. We also use them on the outer lining of floor mats or to make nada strings for bags.” 

Banana vs others

The Vimala Welfare Centre in Ernakulam, Kerala, aims to empower women by making fibre artefacts. It is a registered society by the Congregation of the Daughters of the Heart of Mary. Sister Sophy Paul, president of the Congregation, said, “Initially, we would use hyacinth, palm and century plant fibres. We transitioned to banana fibres because we found it more durable.” 

Between handmade fibres and machine-extracted ones, Sr Sophy finds the former stronger. “Since the last few years, we have been sourcing banana fibres from agents who use machines for extraction. Now our artisans hand roll them to achieve the desired thickness,” she shared. 

Another advantage of working with banana fibres is that they retain colour for a long time. Artist Shameem Bhanu runs Banana Craft Shop near Chintamani Temple in Anegundi. She said, “I used to make products from water hyacinth fibre. Now I make them from banana fibre. Banana fibre products are more durable than hyacinth. Colours on hyacinth fibres fade after four years but banana fibres retain colour for 10-15 years,” she reasoned.  

Trending now

The Vimala Welfare Centre has been making floor mats and handbags from the banana since its inception in 1961. These products remain popular to the day. Mobile sling bags are gaining popularity. “We have ventured into making laptop bags. We have fulfilled four custom orders,” said Sr Sophy. These bags make use of thick layers of cotton fabric for padding and partitioning.

Based in Bengaluru, Stanu Stalin is a costume designer-turned-product and ambience designer. He has designed pendant lights using banana fibre, coconut shells and steel wire frames. He said, “When I was a design student at Bangalore University, I worked with other plant-based fibres. I realised that banana fibre is the best due to its tensile strength.  I believe this is why banana fibres are being used to make saris and even denim jeans now. A few Indian firms are trying to make vegan leather from banana fibre.” 

Stanu feels there is potential for banana fibre in the construction industry too.

Wallet factor

The price of a four-inch  pen stand made from banana fibre can start from Rs 200. A medium-sized handbag, complete with a cotton lining and zipper, can come for Rs 1,650. Rectangular mats, measuring 2x4 feet can cost Rs 2,800.

Pros and cons of banana fibre

Advantages

*It is soft and lightweight. It is durable and has a good tensile strength. 

*Raw material is readily available in many parts of India.

*It is water resistant.

Disadvantages 

*Extraction and production of banana fibre is laborious.

*It is less elastic than other natural fibres.

*Banana fibres are not dyed usually, so they aren’t available in many colours.

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(Published 12 April 2024, 22:18 IST)

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