Brewing a bold narrative

From millet-infused ales to tropical fruit IPAs, India’s rich heritage now meets modern brewing techniques, captivating diverse audiences. This evolving landscape promises a flavour-forward, exciting future for beer enthusiasts nationwide, writes Chandreyi Bandyopadhyay

The beer story of India promised to be larger than life when the pandemic played spoilsport. In a moment of growth spurt, the craft beer industry hit a roadblock that initially impacted them hard, but soon after, inspired innovation. In ways to sell, market and brew — craft beer in India grew up. Today, breweries are continuously pushing their boundaries with locally influenced, innovative flavours, deeply Indian and refreshingly cheery. From Goa to Gurugram, Puducherry to Pune — a flavour war is afoot in brewing the best beer — lager, ale or stout. 

The big players note big shifts. “The Indian beer market is fascinating, with consumers embracing flavour-rich beer and products that connect them to their roots,” informs Vineet Sharma, Head of Marketing at AB InBev (India), the global beer giant with over 500 brands. And why not indeed? With a never-ending list of flavourful and seasonal ingredients, including millet, India’s rich food diversity has every reason to make itself known in homegrown drinks, even beer.

Lone Wolf, a brand that entered the market last year has gathered similar insights. “Customers now seek a conscientious living, favouring unique Indian flavours that offer both enjoyment and nourishment. The industry must adapt by experimenting with diverse tastes and innovations,” admits Atul Kumar Singh, co-founder & MD of the company.

The India Pale Ale (IPA) is the extra hopped beer that had enough stability to make the many months-long journeys to India. “IPAs are growing in India and we fondly refer to this as the ‘ghar waapsi’ of IPA”, says Karan Jain, CEO of BrewDog India. Extending the concept, they now have mango, lychee, and tangerine IPAs in the portfolio of flavoured beers.

India has been distilling alcoholic drinks for over 5,000 years. It isn’t surprising that newer techniques and older flavours are coming together to add excitement to consumer offerings today. Hops Haus in Bengaluru played with Mango Wheat on tap last summer. With a modest 10 IBU (International Bitterness Units) and a moderate 5.5% ABV (Alcohol by Volume), it provided a harmonious balance of fruity sweetness and crisp refreshment.

Innovation is not limited to microbreweries within large cities either. Catamaran Brewing Co. from Puducherry recently launched ‘Koozh Ale’, based on the Koozh (a millet) Kanji drink of Tamil Nadu. The ingredients include different millet varieties — pearl, barnyard, foxtail, little and finger millets. 

Prasad Radhakrishnan, its founder, admits this being the first time they made a millet-based beer using a technique called Kettle Souring, where yoghurt whey is added to the wort (liquid solution from extracted grains) to introduce lactobacilli which then imparts the sourness by the creation of lactic acid. “We made a beer with Seeraga Samba rice which was well-liked by everyone,” he said. Besides traditional styles of beers like pilsner, Belgian Witbier and IPAs, they are experimenting with flavours like Vetiver Lager and Butterfly blue pea seltzer.

The new wave of interest in craft spirits is growing notably among the large consumer market that India offers. “The consumers of beer have not been excited by the large manufacturers,” says Gurpreet Singh of World of Brands. “Their focus has been on a niche segment of mild beer consumers willing to pay a premium for innovation or a craft experience. We base our innovations on deep consumer insights, tapping into familiar flavours like mango and citrus fruits that evoke nostalgia and broader appeal,” he elaborated.

At Prime Golf, mangoes of Indian origin were used in playful variations to create complex new flavour profiles. “We arrived at this flavour profile by celebrating the diversity of mangoes. We’re using a blend of Alphonso for its richness, Mallika for a touch of sweetness and tartness, and Banganapalli to add those playful pineapple and citrus notes,” reveals Umang Nair, brewmaster at the brand. “To further elevate the aroma and bring warmth, we incorporate vanilla, to tie everything together for a hazy, bright yellow, refreshing, and smooth tropical summer beer,” adds Nair.

Everyone sees the consumer shift as a mark of new opportunities. “Oktoberfest is the perfect excuse to bring people together, whether they’re exploring new brews or want to indulge in their favourite beers,” says Rahul Singh, founder & CEO of The Beer Café. “With India’s growing appreciation for craft beer, we’re excited to introduce our patrons to new flavours and traditions.”

As 12th Man, Effingut, Rolling Mills, Drifters, Hapi, Wildcraft and Barba were in the lineup for Oktoberfest celebrations at Hotel Sahara Star in Mumbai, it is safe to note that no one wants to be left behind in this run-up to a flavour-focused beer-volution in India.

Inspired by the flavours of India and the growing popularity of craft beer, AB InBev launched Seven Rivers recently, promoting ingredients like orange, coriander, banana, and clove at its pristine beachside setup at The Taj Aguada in Goa. “Flavour experimentation is also at the core of Hoegaarden, our premium wheat beer brand where we introduced two new variants of the beer, Rosée and Nectarine, blending the timeless essence of Hoegaarden with fruity notes of raspberry and peaches,” adds Sharma.

Indulgent flavours have redefined the beer experience, attracting new consumer groups — especially women and wine enthusiasts — and broadening the appeal and diversity of the beer-drinking community in India. As craft beer continues to evolve at the hands of curious brewmasters, it is indeed opening up Pandora’s box to endless possibilities.