Living a golden dream in Jaisalmer

Jaisalmer in Rajasthan is a dreamy desert destination, writes Masarrath Ali Khan

As you approach the Golden City, you will realise that your mind is not playing tricks on you! Jaisalmer rises from the heart of the Thar Desert like a golden mirage! According to a legend, Lord Krishna foretold that a remote descendant of the Yadav clan would establish his kingdom atop the Trikuta Hill. True to his word, Bhati ruler Maharawal Jaisal abandoned his fort at Lodurva and founded a new capital at Jaisalmer Fort in 1156 AD.

A grand structure

The fort is the heart of Jaisalmer city around which life revolves. With a vast living area enclosed in the massive ramparts, it dominates the amber-hued city and rises tall in splendour and magnificence. When the sun sets, the huge walls of tawny lion-coloured yellow sandstone on the site fade to honey-gold, hiding it in the golden desert. For this reason, it's also called the Golden Fort.

A grand structure — 460m long, 230m wide — and built on a hill that rises about a height of 76m above the surrounding countryside, the fortification wall is about

5 km in circumference. A fine cobblestone pathway through four gates (Akhai Pol, Suraj Pol, Bhoota Pol and Hawa Pol) takes visitors to the royal palace. The fort is dotted by some enchanting narrow lanes with some lovely havelis, many temples and five interconnected palaces. Merasi singers sit in the fort with their musical instruments, singing songs of yore in their rustic voices.

Towering over the fort’s main courtyard is the former Maharaja’s elegant palace, now the Fort Palace Museum. The courtyard served as a venue for reviewing soldiers, hearing petitions, and entertaining dignitaries. The palace features rooms with antique weapons, a royal umbrella, paintings of Maharawals, silver seats, antique photos from various events, clothing, and furnishings. Views of the numerous round pebbles stacked atop the battlements, waiting to be rolled onto the advancing foes, are unobstructed from the higher floors. A wealth of art and history can be found in the seven exquisitely sculpted Jain temples inside the fort complex, most of which were constructed between the 12th and the 15th century.

The oldest and most well-known of these is the Chintamani Parshwanath Temple. Hindu deities like Vishnu, Kali, Shiva, Parvathi, and others are intricately carved on it. Said to be almost two millennia old (55 BC), the central idol of Chintamani Parshwanath is sculpted from clay and covered in a thick covering of finely crushed pearls.

Ornate havelis

Constructed in 1885 AD, the Nathmal Ji Ki Haveli is a marvel of intricate architecture and exquisite craftsmanship. Hathi and Laloo, two brothers, carved it. One was on the right wing and the other was on the left wing, and they both operated independently. While not exact replicas, the two wings are comparable. Its inside walls are richly decorated with exquisite little artwork.

The Patwa Haveli (a group of five ornate mansions) is regarded as the Taj Mahal of Jaisalmer. It towers over a narrow lane and was built during 1800-60 AD by the Patwas. The Patwas were rich merchants whose business spanned across banking and finance, silver, brocade, and opium trade. The then head of the family Ghuman Chand Patwa, gifted a separate and elaborate mansion to each of his five sons. One of the havelis is open to tourists as Kothari’s Patwa Haveli Museum. Its intricate stonework looks like honey-coloured lace. It has extensive corridors and chambers, supported by intricately carved pillars. It is adorned with carvings on the doors, and embedded ivory, and has golden paintings on the inner roofs and walls. It has a rich collection of household items, turbans, old postcards and fine mirror work, weights and coins, locks, keys, and musical instruments.

Gadisar Lake is a scenic tranquil water body built by Maharawal Garsi Singh in 1367 AD. A boat ride in the lake rewards the visitor with magnificent views of ancient temples, chhatris and cenotaphs. A wide variety of water birds flock here in the winter season.

A musical evening in the desert

No trip to Jaisalmer is complete without a visit to the Sam Sand dunes. Exciting camel safaris allow the tourists to get the real feel of the desert on the back of the camel. The sand dunes come to life with traditional dances and cultural events as the sun sets and spreads a magical canopy of colours. The moon and stars also create a canopy of heavenly illumination. The rustic voice of the Merasi singers wafts through the desert and the folk dancers present a wonderful show.