Kota, a poet's shrine and devi's abode

travel

The name Kota instantly brings to mind the Rajasthan city where the country’s second oldest nuclear reactor is operating and also as the training ground for potential IIT aspirants. But a few minds in our State, especially the ones bitten by the literary bug, would automatically think of the small town situated near Udupi that was home to one of the greatest literary giants who also commanded mastery over Yakshagana. Yes, the town under discussion is Kota in Udupi, Karnataka and the man is none other than Dr Shivarama Karanth, a Jnanpith award winning writer and environmentalist who made Kannadigas proud.

Situated on the NH-17 (NH-66) between Udupi and Kundapura, this small town also has a fair share of temples. One among them is the Hire Mahalingeshwara temple that lies very close to the highway. At first sight, one can easily miss it due to its relatively nondescript yellow back wall with the temple’s name embossed in Kannada. Slowing down and entering the temple through the small gate, one realises that there is more to it than meets the eye. Walking over to the front side, one is instantly struck by the enormity of the temple compound. With its tall Garuda stambha and wide porch, the entrance looks impressive. Entering, one is immediately greeted by the welcoming sight of the main temple structure which houses the deity Hire Mahalingeshwara, an incarnation of Shiva.

Upon enquiring about the temple’s history, the priest told us that the linga was installed by Mayasura, the father-in-law of Ravana and the principal architect of the Asuras though the temple construction details are largely unknown. The construction is simple and follows the same norms as any typical coastal Karnataka temple with the main structure surrounded by an outer periphery. The masonry and architecture are straightforward. One can find a few stone edicts written in Halegannada though most of the inscriptions are illegible from deterioration. The atmosphere is serene and the temple pond located closeby adds to its aura.

After darshan, we walked further up towards the Kota bus stop to another shrine, the Shri Amruteshwari Halavu Makkala Taayi Ammanavaru temple. The story behind its name is interesting albeit vague. It is believed that after Rama slayed demon Kharasura, Kumbhamukhi performs penance invoking Goddess Amruteshwari and ultimately merges her soul into the Goddess. Shortly after that, a number of lingas emerged around the Devi which are now referred to as her children, thereby giving her the title “the mother of many children”. Several lingas can still be seen around the sanctum sanctorum. This temple is famous as devotees believe that the Devi fulfills their wishes and cures ailments. Childless couples from far-off places offer prayers here. The premises is moderately big and well maintained despite the sizable crowd of devotees.

Satisfying our religious thirst, we decided to quench our literary thirst i.e. the search for Dr Karanth’s house. Asking around, we learnt that the house unfortunately did not exist now. However, the government has built a memorial hall the Dr Shivarama Theme Park in his honour which is located a little away from the highway. Walking through its gates, the first thing that catches the eye are the beautiful bronze statues of Mookajji, a famous character in Dr Karanth’s Jnanapitha award winning novel Mookajjiya Kanasugalu and several children sitting around her in rapt attention as she narrates a story. Going further in, one gets to see the Karantha Kola, a pond with a life-size statue of the writer. The building at the end of the compound is impressive and decked with various postures of Yakshagana, an art close to Dr Karanth’s heart. A library, Bala Bhavan, art gallery and a ranga mandira each named after  his works are part of the memorial. The building is well maintained but some literature and information about Dr Karanth and his works would be helpful to visitors. With a few additions, this place can become a dedicated memorial visited by literary enthusiasts and others to pay respects to a man whose contribution to Kannada literature, Yakshagana and nature conservation is priceless.

How to get there

Kota is about 12 kms from Kundapura and 25 kms from Udupi. Local buses are available and frequent from both places.