On a Hoysala trail in Mandya

entrancing Apart from the teeming sugar cane fields and factories, Mandya is also populated by the architectural remnants of the Hoysalas, writes Rij

Rivers Cauvery and Hemavathi make the land of Mandya fertile and its proof is in the lush green paddy and sugarcane fields spread across the entire district. We all recognise Mandya by the innumerable sugar fields and factories, but what many don’t know about Mandya is its Hoysala heritage. There are a number of Hoysala temples scattered across this district. Though all are equally enchanting, some are famous, while others are little-known. Some of these temples are located in Maddur, Basaralu, Hosaholalu, Kikkeri, Nagamangala and Thonnur.

One of the eye-catchy temples is the  Lakshminarayana Temple at Hosaholalu, built by the Hoysala King Vira Someshwara, which dates back to 1250 AD. It is a trikuta structure (three shrines) and its central shrine has an imposing shikara (superstructure). The main deity is Nambi Narayana, believed to be consecrated by the great saint Ramanuja himself. To the left of the main deity is a north-facing shrine of Lakshmi Narasimha. The peculiarity of this idol is that Prahalada is depicted near the feet of Narasimha.

Opposite to this shrine is that of Venugopalaswamy. The Temple is built on a star-shaped platform (jagati) and wall images of gods and goddesses form a continuous row all around the exterior of the structure. It is believed that during the Vijayanagar reign, many new additions were added here – extensions to the open hall and a doorway. The Temple was originally called Nambi Narayana Temple, but the locals decided to add a shrine of Lakshmi next to the existing structure and renamed it as Lakshminarayana Temple.

Moving on to the Mallikarjuna Temple at Basaralu, one can see architecture at its best. This Temple is a small trikuta structure but houses numerous sculptures of excellent quality. It is one of the few temples in which the Hoysala crest of Sala slaying the lion is preserved on top of the tower (sukhanasi). Even the kalasa on top of the shrine is intact. A beautiful pillared-entrance on the south leads to the Temple.

Consecrated in 1235 by Harihara
Nayaka under the rule of the Hoysala King Veera Narasimha II, this Temple also stands on a jagati. The famous incident of Arjuna shooting his arrow at a fish by looking at its reflection is depicted beautifully here. What makes this Temple stand out is the pavilion at the entrance of the hall that houses a beautifully-sculpted Nandi, closed on three sides with stone screens.

You can also find a staggering 20-feet-long pillar opposite to the Temple. Though small in size, the Mallikarjuna Temple is a fine specimen of Hoysala Temple architecture as it has an intact shikhara and sukhanasi and the sculptures are as appealing as the ones at Belur and Halebid.

The legacy of a dynasty
In the middle of emerald green fields and coconut trees of Govindanahalli, you can find a rare form of Hoysala architecture in the Panchalingeshwara Temple. Dedicated to Lord Shiva, it is a panchakuta structure (five shrines), built in the 13th Century. The Temple runs parallel to the north-south direction while every shrine faces the east. Two porched entrances at the second and third shrines house a Nandi each. Unlike typical Hoysala temples, this structure is not built on a platform.

The front wall is decorated with jaalis and this allows for lots of lighting for most parts of the day. As the name goes, every shrine houses a linga – Sadyojatheshwara,
Vamadeveshwara, Aghoreshwara, Tatpurusheshwara and Ishaneshwara. There is also an idol of Ganesh holding a weapon, which when struck gives out a metallic sound. There is also a peculiar sculpture of two snakes coiled around each other, one with seven heads and the other with five.

Move along on your Hoysala trail by visiting the Saumyakeshava Temple at Nagamangala. Built on a four-feet-high star-shaped jagati, this Temple is also a trikuta structure. The main shrine, facing the east, houses a beautifully carved idol of Saumyakeshava, a form of Vishnu.

Another shrine facing the north houses an idol of Lakshmi-Narasimha, while the shrine facing the south houses an idol of Venugopala along with Rukmini and Satyabhama. All the three shrines open to a pillared navaranga (hall), whose central part is occupied by a mantapa. The ceiling of this pillared hall is ornamental and a life-like carving of a snake encircling a bud hanging down at the centre catches your attention. Many believe that this carving has given the village its name. The shikhara over the main shrine has nagara features which very few Hoysala temples have. There are two smaller shrines
outside. One is dedicated to Vishnu as Sudarshana and the other is dedicated to the consort of the main deity, Saumyanayaki.

Though built by the Hoysalas, this Temple was patronised by the Vijayanagara rulers as well. They established a seven-storeyed Dravidian style gopura, made of lime and brick, in front of the Temple. You can also find a 47-feet-high deepa sthambha (pole with lights) outside the Temple, which has been carved from a single stone. The higher lamps are lit
using a pulley system, which surprisingly, works even today.

The Hoysalas are widely popular for their love for simple yet alluring architecture. They left their imprints in the form of intricate, ornate temples and for generations to come, we will recognise this dynasty by such imposing structures.