JOIN USThe regal statue of sword-wielding Rani Chennamma, the legendary queen of Kittur, on horseback, greets us at the entrance of Kittur town in Belagavi district, a town associated with valour and defiance. Rani Chennamma, who ruled Kittur region in the 19th century, was called the “Pole Star of Indian Independence” as she was one of the first Indian rulers to fight against the British, even before the Sepoy Mutiny of 1857.
As we enter the sprawling Fort precincts in Kittur, pages from history spring to life before us. Built over an area of about 25 acres, the Fort unravels the tale of the great freedom struggle headed by Chennamma, who fought to save her kingdom from British imperialists, thus according the small principality, a place of prominence in the Indian freedom struggle.
We visualise what we read in history books, the clamour of orders being issued, armoured soldiers mounted on caparisoned elephants and cantering horses charging in fervour and fury, cannons trundling up and down the fort ramparts, the clanging of swords and the piercing screams of troops in agony as cold steel slashes, wounds and crushes through skin and bones, creating a veritable bloodbath.
Even as the scene sends a chill down our spine, our thoughts travel back to the present. No gory signs of war here. Battle cries have been replaced by the twitter of birds and rustle of leaves that waltz to the melody of a gentle spring breeze.
Vestiges of a bygone era
The Fort mainly comprises a palace — a three-storeyed structure displaying Peshwa-Islamic architectural style of stunning splendour. However, all that remain today of the great legacy are some ruined walls. While the ramparts and bastions remain intact, the Fort itself, constructed out of black basalt rock, stands tranquil in ruins. A moat sans water surrounds it and serves as an open pasture for cattle to graze. A porch supported by teak pillars adorned the Fort in its days of glory. The edifice, though bereft of both, reveals the stunning planning that went into its design and outlay. The grand palace of Chennamma can still be identified by its vestiges. Its ruined ornamental arches and bedecked shelves provide a glimpse of the lost grandeur of the citadel that once served as the residence of the great queen.
It is palpable that the palace had several rooms, each constructed with a specific purpose as observed by the name plates indicating kitchen, waiting room, durbar hall and discussion rooms among others. The royal kitchen was a marvel in those days with its unique exhaust system and small wells for drawing water. Further, the palace had a secret well with large brass pipes built into its walls to ensure uninterrupted water supply within the palace. It is said that the palace also had an in-built swimming pool and an expansive kitchen garden. The rooms, each of which had two entrances, were a judicious blend of architectural prowess and aesthetics. The Pole Star Vision room, used by Chennamma and other rulers to watch the ‘Dhruva’ star or Pole Star, is believed to have had an ancient telescope through which the star was observed. However, now we can only see a built-in viewing shaft on one of its walls.
Just outside the palace ruins lies the temple of the village deity, and alongside is the archaeological museum, a later addition to the Fort premises, a storehouse of relics. It houses a significant collection of antiquities discovered in Kittur and its vicinity.
Its three galleries display historical relics, inscriptions, intricately sculpted statues of deities belonging to the Chalukyan and Vijayanagar eras, articles of the Desai family, which ruled Kittur, including weapons, attires, shields, hero stones, engraved wooden doors and windows of the Kittur Palace and modern paintings.
Rulers of Kittur
Though many kings ruled Kittur from 1585 to 1824, it was Allappagouda Desai and Mallasarja Desai of the Desai family who left their indelible imprints. While the former constructed the majestic Fort and the palace within it, Kittur rose to fame during the reign of Mallasarja. Following his death in 1816, his wife Chennamma, who was also an able administrator, ruled the land.
Chennamma protested against the Doctrine of Lapse (officially codified between 1848 and 1856) imposed on native states by the British and stood firm against their undesired interference in tax collection in her state. In 1824, she took on the imperial army led by John Thackeray and fought valiantly. Thackeray’s army suffered defeat and humiliation at Chennamma’s hands.
Lives were lost on both sides and Thackeray himself was killed in the battle. Following their dismal defeat at the hands of Chennamma, the British sought negotiations with Kittur. The talks failed and they launched a fresh attack on Kittur in the same year.
A fierce battle raged for three days, and following treachery from within the queen’s army, Kittur was taken over by the British. Chennamma was held captive by the British and breathed her last in 1829, while still under their custody at the fort of Bailhongal.