Masterchefs of lore

According to the Mahabharata, Bheemasena and Nala Maharaja, were two exceptional geniuses second to none in culinary art, writes Ashwin Iyer

To provide food and nourishment is one of the most incredible acts of charity and absolves one of the vilest of sins. The art of cooking this meal to satisfy one’s mind, body, and soul is considered an act of Divinity. Many famous characters from our mythology and lore have excelled in the culinary arts. Sita and Draupadi were exceptional cooks who had great sages, kings, and Gods eating out of their hands. The Mahabharata, however, mentions two exceptional Masterchefs who were second to none when it came to this sacred art: Bheemasena and Nala Maharaja.

King Nala was known for his skill with horses and his culinary expertise. The first-ever cookbook, Pakadarpanam (a mirror of culinary knowledge), is attributed to him. His culinary skills played a crucial role in him winning the heart of his lover Damayanti. Princess Damayanti of Vidarbha was a divine beauty coveted by both Gods and Kings. The Gods Indra, Agni, Yama, and Varuna wanted to win her heart and decided to send their marriage proposals to her through Nala. Pleased with his duty, they bestowed him with divine powers. One of them was the gift of cooking without the use of fire. He used these powers to create various recipes, which are listed in his book. On the day of her swayamvara, Damayanti was enamoured by the scent of spices that clung to Nala’s body. She used this fragrance to distinguish him from the Gods and chose him to be her husband over all the Divinity present in the hall. It is quite evident from this story that the way to a woman’s heart is also through her stomach.

The Pandava — Bheemasena, mostly known for his valour, was also an exceptional cook and a foodie. He could channel great strength to yield his mighty mace and measure even the tiniest pinch of salt required to balance his dishes. Many amazing recipes are attributed to his culinary genius, and one such preparation is Aviyal. Various legends narrate the birth of this famous South Indian dish.

When the Pandavas were in exile, they took shelter in the kingdom of Virata. Bheema disguised himself as Vallabha, the royal cook. Once, upon the arrival of unexpected guests to the palace, he was asked to prepare a quick feast for them. He did not have enough vegetables and ingredients to prepare a banquet, so he decided to make one single dish using all available ingredients, and thus the Aviyal was born. According to another legend, Bheema was a little boy when he created Aviyal. Duryodhana attempted to kill him by feeding him poisoned kheer and drowned him in the river to ensure that no one finds his body. However, he was saved by Nagaraja, the serpent king. The Kuru family mourned his death, and all rituals had been performed to bid farewell to his departed soul. When Bheema returned home on the thirteenth day, the ceremony, which also included a feast, was called off. The hungry Bheema was heartbroken when he heard this. He decided to indulge himself by preparing a dish using all the ingredients set aside for the feast and created Aviyal.

The recipe mentioned in the stories above is that of a thick, wholesome vegetable stew of yam, drumstick, raw mango, white pumpkin, taro root, flat beans, green peas, brinjal, raw banana, potato, and several other vegetables cooked in a gravy of coconut and spices such as green chillies and seasoned with coconut oil and curry leaves. The recipe followed in most Tamil households is similar to this one and is very different from the drier version famous in almost all Malayali kitchens.

The ancient texts attached great importance to the art of cooking a balanced meal, flavours, aromas, and presentation, as is evident from these stories. It was a skill coveted by both men and women in those times. I hope these legends inspire each of us to develop this incredible art, which has become a basic necessity these days in these trying times.

(The author is an artist who wears many creative hats. He is a famous food stylist and food photographer and a finalist on MasterChef India Season 5. An avid gardener and Ikebana artist and a model who promotes handlooms and jewellery for men, he is known by the name “Magicplateman” in the culinary circles. Connect with him on Instagram @ashwin.tv)