A summer glimpse of an underwater temple

When the water retreats, the Vitthal temple in the Hidkal dam backwaters in Belagavi emerges to provide a magnificent view of its interiors

A view of the new Vitthal temple in Honnur village, Belagavi district; the ancient Vitthal temple emerges from the water in summer. Photo by author

Summers in the Hidkal dam backwaters in the Belagavi district backwaters can yield many surprises. As the waters recede, the Vitthal temple emerges after being underwater for a year. This year, the delay in monsoons has ensured both visitors and villagers will be able to keep the temple in their sights for longer.

In 1977, when the construction of the dam was completed, the Hidkal and Honnur villages were completely submerged. Houses and fields, schools and temples all went underwater and eventually disintegrated. The Vitthal temple has stayed intact in spite of being underwater for 45 years.

In the peak of summer, the temple becomes accessible. In 2020, when the lake was almost dry, one could drive up to the entrance of the temple. This year, the temple could only be seen from a distance of 50 metres as deep waters still surround it. Viewed from a height, one can clearly catch a glimpse of the interiors of the temple.

The wide façade of the temple, built in black stone, is typical of the Hemadpanti style of architecture which was famous during the 12th and 13th centuries.

Situated at the confluence of three regions -- Karnataka, Goa and Maharashtra, Belagavi district had a strategic geo-political advantage in those times. Several Maratha kings stopped at Belagavi and its adjoining forts on their way to the Gomantak Land (Goa). Belagavi district has over 21 small and large forts. The one in Belagavi city is the largest in terms of area.

The façade is flanked by carved figurines of Dwarpalas. The inner courtyard has a smaller temple with columns and arches. The sanctum sanctorum is situated in an area which has a pointed gopura above it. The tall structures of the outer wall are damaged due to the ravages of time and as a consequence of being submerged in water for years.

When the dam was being constructed, and the submergence of the temple was inevitable, a similar temple was commissioned at the Honnur village which stands in reminiscence of the old structure. It has similar carvings on the façade and the inner sanctum.

A replica

The deity inside the sanctum sanctorum is that of Lord Vitthal and Rukmini, his consort. The wide and spacious courtyard has arched pathways which house several rooms today. In the original structure, these arched areas would have been used to tie the animals like cows, horses and ceremonial elephants, typical of many south Indian temples.

At a distance, one can see the dilapidated Honnur fort and still further, you can clearly see the main gates of the Hidkal dam. The Honnur fort is believed to be built as a stopover during long military conquests for refuelling and for storage of food grains to be used by the army.

The current state of the fort is pitiable though one can chalk out the ramparts, the bastion with a flag pole and the broad walls built of laterite stone, easily available in this area. The fort also has a couple of deep wells which would have supplied water to those living there.

One can easily walk up the fort from the Honnur village and have a panoramic view of the entire stretch of the Hidkal dam and its backwaters. It is a sight to behold, particularly to witness the vast blue expanse of water and green fields of sugarcane and paddy beyond.

Though the ancient temple has had a modern replica, one cannot but help but wonder if the original stone temple can still be saved from damage by repositioning it, one stone at a time. Whatever the case, the chance of seeing what was once a popular temple is rare and not to be missed.