<p>Most websites and guide books will rattle off a bucket list of what not to miss in Geneva. The information on offer tells you nothing more than what greets the eye — Lake Geneva, the largest lake in Western Europe; Jet d’eau, a water fountain of 140 metres; and that French is the langue locale. But follow in the footsteps of a certified tour guide and discover that a Celtic population once lived along the shores of Lake Leman; that watchmaking was brought in by the Huguenot refugees in the 16th century; and that only one-third of the population is Swiss.<br /><br /></p>.<p>Geneva, seen through the eyes of an experienced and multilingual guide, is somewhat like living through a period film telecast in a time machine.<br /><br />Origin of Geneva<br /><br />Emilie Bissardon has been a guide for more than 15 years. As a child she would accompany her mother, who, like her now, would take tourists around European cities. “The first mention of Geneva was made by Caesar, in his Commentaries. He came here in 58 BC to destroy the bridge that existed on the River Rhone to ensure the Helvetians could not advance to what is today’s West of France.” This reference is found on a plaque in the Old Town: on the Bel Air tower; and near the arsenal mosaic opposite the Maison Tavel, the oldest house of the city, informs the guide.<br /><br />Follow Emilie as she walks you through the 18th century into the old quarter called St Gervais. This is the neighbourhood, near today’s Cornavin station, where renowned citizen and thinker Jean-Jacques Rousseau worked and where watchmaking workshops firmly positioned Geneva on the modern haute couture map. Occasionally, Emilie will point to the sky. Actually, it’s to look up at the top floors of some buildings and their attic-type windows. It is where the craftsmen, watchmakers, enamellers, miniaturists, engravers poured over their fine detailed work. “The windows up there let in the much-needed natural light… many tourists are surprised to learn of the trade of miniature enamel painting on dials of that time,” shares Emilie.<br /><br />To hop back into time present, take a tram from in front of the train station towards Parc des Bastions where university students and city dwellers can lie on the grass with a book and a croissant, or play a game of outdoor chess with the enormous chess men. Some tourists prefer to take the mini train through the park. The central focus of the Parc des Bastions is the Mur de la Réformation or Reformation Monument, carved in the early 20th century. It has huge statues of Reformation luminaries — John Calvin, William Farel, Theodore Beza and John Knox; an inscription of the Lord’s Prayer; the Calvin motto post tenebras lux (Light After Darkness); and a bas-relief of a prayer scene on the Mayflower. This is the Protestant history of Geneva sealed in stone. <br /><br />With a background in history of architecture and art and a keen focus on the cultural history of Geneva, Marlyse Beldi has been an active guide for around 14 years. Marlyse cites the Parc des Bastions as one of her favourite spots. Delving into the past, she explains, “Built over fortifications of the 16th and 18th century, Parc des Bastions was laid out anew in the 19th century to symbolise the path of Geneva towards the future. Although inspired by the past (the Reformation Wall), most of the personalities represented in various forms — sculptures, inscriptions on stone slabs — are scientists and scholars who enjoyed an international reputation for their contribution to natural science, engineering, humanitarian law, psychology. The new university of 1873, a substitute for the Protestant academy, has been built between two former bastions.”<br /><br />Christian history<br /><br />A guide for over 22 years and a professor of art and art history, Susan Rumphorst says that tourists are often surprised to discover that the Protestant Cathedral of St Pierre has catholic origins. Unravelling the history of the city and the 16th century European revolt against the excesses of the Roman Catholic church to a spellbound audience, Susan explains how Geneva, “a miniscule, powerful Catholic city state surrounded by a Roman Catholic empire simply went over to a new faith in 1536, in what could be termed as an exceedingly pragmatic move.” Walk up the narrow steep lanes to St Pierre on top of the highest and oldest part of this city and step into Calvin’s cathedral. You will find there the simple wooden chair used by the revered reformer; and also the contrasting Gothic Chapel of the Maccabees built much earlier, around 1400. <br /><br />Linking the past with the present are the numerous international agencies, such as the UNHCR, the World Health Organisation, the UN Palais — all focusing on humanitarian goodness. If Calvin’s Geneva offered a safe haven to the refugees of the Reformation whose craftsmanship over time brought recognition and wealth to a city eventually to be known for its banking, Nobel Peace Prize Laureate Henry Dunant’s values established international guidelines for the dignity of prisoners of war and the creation of the International Committee of the Red Cross (ICRC) in 1863. <br /><br />While there are several museums in the city, the Bodmer is “outstanding and unique in the world” says Evelyn Riedener. She should know. Evelyn has around 15 years of guiding experience, started out as a researcher at the University of Geneva and as an art restorer at the Cathedral and works at the Bodmer Foundation, too. The permanent exhibition at the Bodmer Museum traces the history of civilisation across 5,000 years since the discovery of writing and displays fossils dating back 170 million years. However, if you would rather take in the scenic surrounding, Evelyn recommends a boat ride on River Rhone “that leads into the countryside within 10 minutes and also a visit to the longest bench in the world and the famous chestnut tree, in the Old Town,” whose blossoms herald the first day of spring. <br /><br />While it is generally accepted that Geneva has no cuisine to call its own, Marlyse suggests trying the longeole, rissole aux poires, fricassée de porc, the Geneva bouillabaisse. Excellent wines are produced in the canton of Geneva. White wines such as pinot gris, chardonnay, chasselas, and viognier; and refined red ones such as gamaret, pinot noir and gamay.<br /><br />So, plan a trip to Geneva and trace the footsteps of Calvin, Rousseau, Dunant and, of course, the local guides.<br /><br />Fact file<br /><br />Best time to visit: In the months of May, June, September and October, the city is abuzz with temporary exhibitions, concerts, theatre and shows.<br /><br />Getting around: Buy the Swiss Pass (useful for a longer stay in Switzerland); or the local Geneva Pass, valid for 24, 48 or 72 hours. (www.geneva-tourism.ch) Geneva also has well-connected bus and tram services.<br /><br /> Off-shoot day trips: Quaint villages of Annecy and Yvoire; Olympic city Lausanne; Zurich and more.<br /><br />Book a tour guide: <br />http://www.guides-geneve.ch/<br />http://www.visitgeneva.ch/<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /></p>
<p>Most websites and guide books will rattle off a bucket list of what not to miss in Geneva. The information on offer tells you nothing more than what greets the eye — Lake Geneva, the largest lake in Western Europe; Jet d’eau, a water fountain of 140 metres; and that French is the langue locale. But follow in the footsteps of a certified tour guide and discover that a Celtic population once lived along the shores of Lake Leman; that watchmaking was brought in by the Huguenot refugees in the 16th century; and that only one-third of the population is Swiss.<br /><br /></p>.<p>Geneva, seen through the eyes of an experienced and multilingual guide, is somewhat like living through a period film telecast in a time machine.<br /><br />Origin of Geneva<br /><br />Emilie Bissardon has been a guide for more than 15 years. As a child she would accompany her mother, who, like her now, would take tourists around European cities. “The first mention of Geneva was made by Caesar, in his Commentaries. He came here in 58 BC to destroy the bridge that existed on the River Rhone to ensure the Helvetians could not advance to what is today’s West of France.” This reference is found on a plaque in the Old Town: on the Bel Air tower; and near the arsenal mosaic opposite the Maison Tavel, the oldest house of the city, informs the guide.<br /><br />Follow Emilie as she walks you through the 18th century into the old quarter called St Gervais. This is the neighbourhood, near today’s Cornavin station, where renowned citizen and thinker Jean-Jacques Rousseau worked and where watchmaking workshops firmly positioned Geneva on the modern haute couture map. Occasionally, Emilie will point to the sky. Actually, it’s to look up at the top floors of some buildings and their attic-type windows. It is where the craftsmen, watchmakers, enamellers, miniaturists, engravers poured over their fine detailed work. “The windows up there let in the much-needed natural light… many tourists are surprised to learn of the trade of miniature enamel painting on dials of that time,” shares Emilie.<br /><br />To hop back into time present, take a tram from in front of the train station towards Parc des Bastions where university students and city dwellers can lie on the grass with a book and a croissant, or play a game of outdoor chess with the enormous chess men. Some tourists prefer to take the mini train through the park. The central focus of the Parc des Bastions is the Mur de la Réformation or Reformation Monument, carved in the early 20th century. It has huge statues of Reformation luminaries — John Calvin, William Farel, Theodore Beza and John Knox; an inscription of the Lord’s Prayer; the Calvin motto post tenebras lux (Light After Darkness); and a bas-relief of a prayer scene on the Mayflower. This is the Protestant history of Geneva sealed in stone. <br /><br />With a background in history of architecture and art and a keen focus on the cultural history of Geneva, Marlyse Beldi has been an active guide for around 14 years. Marlyse cites the Parc des Bastions as one of her favourite spots. Delving into the past, she explains, “Built over fortifications of the 16th and 18th century, Parc des Bastions was laid out anew in the 19th century to symbolise the path of Geneva towards the future. Although inspired by the past (the Reformation Wall), most of the personalities represented in various forms — sculptures, inscriptions on stone slabs — are scientists and scholars who enjoyed an international reputation for their contribution to natural science, engineering, humanitarian law, psychology. The new university of 1873, a substitute for the Protestant academy, has been built between two former bastions.”<br /><br />Christian history<br /><br />A guide for over 22 years and a professor of art and art history, Susan Rumphorst says that tourists are often surprised to discover that the Protestant Cathedral of St Pierre has catholic origins. Unravelling the history of the city and the 16th century European revolt against the excesses of the Roman Catholic church to a spellbound audience, Susan explains how Geneva, “a miniscule, powerful Catholic city state surrounded by a Roman Catholic empire simply went over to a new faith in 1536, in what could be termed as an exceedingly pragmatic move.” Walk up the narrow steep lanes to St Pierre on top of the highest and oldest part of this city and step into Calvin’s cathedral. You will find there the simple wooden chair used by the revered reformer; and also the contrasting Gothic Chapel of the Maccabees built much earlier, around 1400. <br /><br />Linking the past with the present are the numerous international agencies, such as the UNHCR, the World Health Organisation, the UN Palais — all focusing on humanitarian goodness. If Calvin’s Geneva offered a safe haven to the refugees of the Reformation whose craftsmanship over time brought recognition and wealth to a city eventually to be known for its banking, Nobel Peace Prize Laureate Henry Dunant’s values established international guidelines for the dignity of prisoners of war and the creation of the International Committee of the Red Cross (ICRC) in 1863. <br /><br />While there are several museums in the city, the Bodmer is “outstanding and unique in the world” says Evelyn Riedener. She should know. Evelyn has around 15 years of guiding experience, started out as a researcher at the University of Geneva and as an art restorer at the Cathedral and works at the Bodmer Foundation, too. The permanent exhibition at the Bodmer Museum traces the history of civilisation across 5,000 years since the discovery of writing and displays fossils dating back 170 million years. However, if you would rather take in the scenic surrounding, Evelyn recommends a boat ride on River Rhone “that leads into the countryside within 10 minutes and also a visit to the longest bench in the world and the famous chestnut tree, in the Old Town,” whose blossoms herald the first day of spring. <br /><br />While it is generally accepted that Geneva has no cuisine to call its own, Marlyse suggests trying the longeole, rissole aux poires, fricassée de porc, the Geneva bouillabaisse. Excellent wines are produced in the canton of Geneva. White wines such as pinot gris, chardonnay, chasselas, and viognier; and refined red ones such as gamaret, pinot noir and gamay.<br /><br />So, plan a trip to Geneva and trace the footsteps of Calvin, Rousseau, Dunant and, of course, the local guides.<br /><br />Fact file<br /><br />Best time to visit: In the months of May, June, September and October, the city is abuzz with temporary exhibitions, concerts, theatre and shows.<br /><br />Getting around: Buy the Swiss Pass (useful for a longer stay in Switzerland); or the local Geneva Pass, valid for 24, 48 or 72 hours. (www.geneva-tourism.ch) Geneva also has well-connected bus and tram services.<br /><br /> Off-shoot day trips: Quaint villages of Annecy and Yvoire; Olympic city Lausanne; Zurich and more.<br /><br />Book a tour guide: <br />http://www.guides-geneve.ch/<br />http://www.visitgeneva.ch/<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /></p>
