Chowtime anytime

Gastronomics

Malleswaram is synonymous with old Bengaluru as it has its temples, the Seva Sadans and Canara Unions. It is also culturally vibrant as classical music and dance concerts are the norm here. It is indeed the real toast to the city. But even though Malleswaram is rooted in its tradition, it is also the best example of how a place can absorb, evolve and resonate by experimenting with the changing times. Malleswaram stands tall when it comes to its food culture as it epitomises the eclectic blend of traditional and experimental fare.

While the swanky malls at the two ends of Malleswaram offer some great fine dining options, the real action is out on the streets. Malleswaram just smells of food. One is spoilt for choice when it comes to street food. Deciding what to eat is a challenge sometimes.

Being a resident of Malleswaram for almost three decades has been an absolute privilege for me. And noticing the spurt in the number of eateries is mind-boggling. Back then, eating out meant it had to be yummy masala dose (not dosa) or crisp uddina vade (not vada either) with piping hot idli served with the mint-coconut chutney or amazing benne (butter) dose, CTR (now Shri Sagar), Hotel Janatha or Veena Stores, and shavige bath (or bhath) at Raghavendra Stores and Iyer Mess for a homely South Indian meal. Malleswaram was known for Kumar’s egg sandwich for a quick snack and for Bhagyalakshmi Gulkand Store for those who wished to indulge their sweet tooth.

It was the early 1990s that saw interesting places cropping up like the now-defunct Eatout near 15th Cross or Halli Mane on 3rd Cross. With so much variety on offer at Adiga’s, MTR of Maiya’s, eating out became a pleasure.

With choice, there was a shift in the minds of old-timers in the area who chose to sample the newer fare. While gobi manchurian (with coriander/ curry leaves at times), masala dose and idly-vade are still hot favourites, chaat is the next big thing. Malleswaram is in fact known to be creative in its variations of a dish as even customers here are open to experimenting. Ever heard of the timepass masala or the Hong Kong chaat apart from the regular masala bhel or pani puri? You just need an appetite for it and you won’t be disappointed! While the older restaurants have largely stuck to their original tastes, one might argue that a majority of the newer eateries probably have no signature taste and serve dishes that are purely experimental. But who can deny the fact that it’s always food time in Malleswaram!

(The author takes refuge in food after a tiring day with cars and gadgets.)