In Zermatt, the Matterhorn’s shadow

The Matterhorn, known as the “peak in the meadows”, is shaped like a jagged tooth and is a magnet for adventurers looking for a mythical climb in Switzerland, writes Chaitali Patel

The Inderbinen Fountain is dedicated to mountain guide Ulrich Inderbinen who is famous for his longevity and love for mountain climbing.

Exhibits at Zermatlantis offer a peek into the unique Alpine traditions that define the region.

There’s no escaping the mountains in Switzerland, and in Zermatt, an Alpine town that spreads around the base of the magnificent Matterhorn, the 4,478-metre-tall mountain feels almost within reach. On a rainy day, as I stepped off the train with a group of fellow writers, the jagged Matterhorn was obscured by a thick veil of clouds. It was clear that I had to wait for my gasp-inducing first view of the peak that graces the butter yellow wrapper of the Toblerone chocolate (which is likely to change due to the ‘Swissness’ rule). In the mountains, the weather called the shots and Zermatt was strictly playing by the rules.

We spent the next few hours ambling down the cobbled, car-free streets of Zermatt, a town with 5,600 residents. Wooden chalets with their windowsills overflowing with bright red, orange and pink geraniums added cheer to the rainy surroundings.

The Matterhorn remained well hidden but its presence was everywhere. We passed umpteen skiers and mountaineers lugging skis and equipment. Shops selling hiking shoes, jackets and gear line the main commercial street, Bahnhofstrasse. At Fuchs — a local favourite — trays of Matterhornli, a bite-sized chocolate replica of the peak, crowd the shop window. Clearly, the love for the outdoors and the mighty peaks is what brings people to Zermatt.

In fact, the town would have remained a bucolic farming village had it not been for a mountaineering expedition in 1865 that made news. A group of seven climbers made history as they were the first to successfully summit the Matterhorn. However, on their descent, an unfortunate accident occurred on the slopes, and only three of the seven made it back down. The tragic event turned the spotlight on Zermatt, attracting those with a yearning for adventure.

As the skies showed signs of clearing, we decided to take our chances and head up for closer views onboard the Gornergrat Bahn, the world’s first entirely electrified cog railway. The 33-minute journey took us through larch and Swiss stone pine forests, over ravines and past serene mountain lakes. Trundling out of dark tunnels through the parting of clouds we got our first glimpse of the country’s most famous mountain. Although the inclement weather had made us wait, we got to enjoy the glorious views sans the crowds. At the Kulmhotel Gornergrat, Europe’s highest-altitude hotel, we celebrated the moment with steaming mugs of hot chocolate.

A trip to Zermatt is incomplete without partaking in any kind of outdoor activity. On a crisp, sunny morning we took the funicular to Sunnegga and then an eight-seater gondola further to Blauherd, the starting point of our hike. Our trail took us through juniper and lichen-covered hills with the Matterhorn in the backdrop. At the pristine Stellisee Lake, we were treated to a spellbinding sight of the Matterhorn’s reflection on its calm surface.

Like most Swiss, our guide Mirjam Jost was a mountain goat, climbing without breaking a sweat. Inspired, I tried hard to show no signs of tiredness but was secretly relieved when she told us that we had reached our summit — the Fluhalp, a charming stone building with bright red windows. On the sweeping terrace, we enjoyed an al fresco meal of rosti, a classic Swiss dish made of grated potatoes shallow fried until crisp and topped with a variety of toppings.

The Swiss love their rich food as much as their chocolate, but balance it with a very active lifestyle. When in Zermatt we were clearly doing as the locals do and followed our hike with a walk around town. Past the snow-fed Vispa stream, we followed our guide Angela Moser into Hinterdorf, also known as the old village. Surrounded by barns, stables and homes dating back to the 16th and 18th centuries, the village is a well-preserved slice of history. Made from larch wood, the wooden structures have no nails. Slabs of stone make up the roofs and Angela tells us that depending on the size some roofs can weigh over 10,000 kilograms.

Walking further, we come to the Inderbinen Fountain dedicated to mountain guide Ulrich Inderbinen who climbed the Matterhorn 371 times. Fed by cool spring water, local lore goes that those who drink from the mountain will live to be 100 years old like Inderbinen.

At the Matterhorn Museum – Zermatlantis, we learn more about unique Alpine traditions that define the region, the struggles that the early mountaineers faced, and get a glimpse of how far mountaineering has come today.

In a town that owes its very existence to mountaineering, behind the parish church of St Mauritius we visit the mountaineers’ cemetery that has graves of over 50 climbers from across the world who lost lives on the surrounding slopes. The ‘Grave of the Unknown Climber’ dedicated to those who lost their lives in the pursuit of adventure and whose remains were never found is a powerful reminder of the perils mountaineering entails. The mountains have and will continue to exude an unrelenting pull and in Zermatt, we got a taste of it.