The wild side of Jaipur

Surrounded by the undulated Aravalli mountain range, Jaipur is home to dry deciduous forests and many wild animals, writes Kavita Kanan Chandra

I had first sighted a leopard sleeping blissfully on a tree branch. We were on a leopard safari in a 4X4 jeep in the Jhalana wildlife sanctuary, just outside the urban sprawl of Jaipur. Much excitement ensued to get the perfect view and the click. However, the thin leafy branches dangling over it restricted our view. Being agile and a nimble tree climber, the shy cat prefers dragging its kill into the branches, devouring it undisturbed and safe from scavengers such as hyenas. The leopard is known for its stealth while stalking its prey. Whether in the tall grasses, in water or with a deadly pounce off the trees. The branches could well be a cosy place to rest and sleep afterwards. The big cat we saw was a leopardess called Cleopatra.

Determined to see the regal sleeping beauty in full glory, we were back for the evening safari. We stumbled upon striped hyenas instead, a much uncommon sight. Known for its extremely strong jaws and bite that could shatter bones, leopards prefer to steer off its path. Hyenas move in packs while leopards are solitary animals so it could outweigh the big cat in a face-off. With chances of sighting a leopard being slim, we drove in the opposite direction. We could spot one lurking behind the tall grasses, catching a glimpse of its magnificent yellowish fur speckled with black rosettes. As we waited patiently in the sun-dappled deciduous forest admiring the dramatic play of light and silhouettes, the leopard emerged in the open. There was a swing in its powerful yet graceful gait. The driver informed me it was the same Cleopatra. Hardly at a distance of 30 feet from us, it paused to look up as its eyes shone brightly. We gawked and gasped before it sauntered off in the thick of the forest.

Growing up on Ruskin Bond’s stories of the mountains and forest, who could forget the moving tale of the Night of the leopard. Rudyard Kipling’s Jungle Book black panther (leopard) Bagheera, a protector and mentor to Mowgli, is a benign character etched in our mind. But away from fiction, leopards have gained notoriety in the real world when they stray beyond the shrinking forest and kill dogs, cattle and even humans.

To protect the leopards, its natural habitat and reduce man-animal conflict, the country’s first Project Leopard was launched in October 2018 in Jhalana. Spread over 24 square km with a transient population of 30 leopards, sightings are common.

It had been a favourite hunting ground of the erstwhile royals, teeming with tigers and leopards earlier. We could still see the hunting lodge (shikar houdi) located on one of the hillocks to spot wild animals. The erstwhile queen, Maharani Gayatri Devi had shot the last tigress in 1948. Two of its cubs were sent to the Jaipur zoo. The leopards now remain the only apex predator.

The blue bulls, spotted deer, desert fox, golden jackal, Indian palm civets and striped hyenas are other animals. Among the trees, dhonk, babool, khejri and tall grasses dominate. A good number of reptile species and monitor lizards are also there. The forest is a birdwatcher’s delight as the spotted owls, dusky eagle, golden oriole, Indian pitta, shikra, nightjar, kingfisher, Indian roller and peafowl could be seen.

During my recent visit in the pandemic, an outing in the wilderness meant much more than just chasing the big cats. The leopards were also sighted easily either near water holes or the beautiful cub sunning itself on the canal’s parapet in the winter morning. We then had enough time birdwatching and savouring the silence of the forest. It was an enchanting experience as bees buzzed, birds called and butterflies fluttered around. The details became vivid like the insects skittering around and bugs doodling squiggly lines on leaves while feeding on them.

Apart from Jhalana, the entire stretch of the Aravalli hills towards Nahargarh wildlife sanctuary and the Galtaji Temple in the city’s outskirts is the natural habitat of the leopards. The Galtaji Temple is situated in a mountain pass swarming with monkeys and leopards loitering in the surrounding hills. We could see one far away moving like a shadow in the receding twilight.

The Nahargarh wildlife sanctuary is in the foothills of the Nahargarh Fort that lies on the edge of the Aravalli Hills. It was once the hunting residence of the royals. Historically, the forest was teeming with tigers and leopards. With tigers gone, leopards still prowl in the wild.