When the journey is as beautiful as the destination...

For enthralling reasons, taking a ferry between the North and South Islands of New Zealand is a must, writes Rameshinder Singh Sandhu

The top deck is most sough-after as the views from here are a treat for the eyes

In Europe, locals fervently suggest tourists take trains instead of planes. In New Zealand, they recommend the ferry journey, especially between its two major islands — North and South. During my trip to New Zealand, just a few months before coronavirus stalled travel plans, I was also on the same ferry. As expected, the journey was breathtaking.

En route, besides getting regaled by nature’s show, the route also stands historic as most of it is on the Cook’s Strait which is named after famous British explorer James Cook, who became the maiden European commander to sail through it in the 1700s on his famous HMS Endeavour. Interestingly, the same voyage led him towards the discovery of New Zealand and Australia.

I was on the afternoon Interislander ferry, named Kaitaki in Maori (meaning Challenger) and I boarded from Picton, a charming coastal town of the South Island. I was also filled with overwhelming joy for my destination — Wellington, the national capital that sits on the southern tip of North Island.

The ferry was more than magnificent as it had many levels, and like many luxury cruise liners was peppered with restaurants, lounges, a cinema, kids’ zone and many private cabins for getting some rest. But, I knew I was not here for sleep but to explore every bit of this short adventure which takes three and a half hours, covering a distance of 70 kilometres.

I also knew, where I should be — the topmost deck at least for the first hour and a half since it had to pass through Marlborough Sounds, a grand cluster of many green islands. It was also advice from an elderly official at the Picton terminal, who handed me my boarding pass and her musical words, still ring in my ears: “Consider it your Titanic which will introduce you to the best of New Zealand’s nature.”

And, so it was. I felt as if the best of nature’s paintings are scattered all around. Little homes on hills, skirted by a herd of grazing cattle surprised me. With me were infinite tourists — who seemed to have come from every pocket of the globe considering so many languages that my ears caught. Their tongues were of course busy, rolling out many praises for the ongoing journey, most of whom, rarely gave any rest to their cameras. For the first half of the crossing, we also spotted many tiny boats nearby and those waving while coming towards us. Some also spotted dolphins racing along but you certainly have to hold strong luck for such spectacular sightings.

When the ferry changed directions, we got different angles to judge nature’s show, and soon came the view of only the magnificent ocean, leaving all islands behind. It’s here where you feel as if there may not be an end to this trip. While I was still taking in the views, it suddenly became so windy that the diary I had in my hand got blown away. With the wind getting stronger, I could also feel the ferry going up and down, braving the violent water. In such a state, many of us started heading straight down.

As I settled in the view lounge, I could still feel the rough water and its many waves shooting up. This is an everyday affair as this strait often experiences turbulent water and heavy swells from strong winds, making it one of the most dangerous and unpredictable waters of the world, but ferries of course run services when it’s safe.

Other than tourists, I also came across several locals on board, many having travelled often on it. They have several timings to choose from as many ferries run during the day, also welcoming hundreds of vehicles including cars, large vans and even buses.

“My family and I often travel to the South Island for its beauty and as we prefer travelling in our own car, we always take the ferry since it allows passengers to get their vehicles. Moreover, the journey is a treat,” one of them told me in a quintessential Kiwi accent.

Finally, the announcement of Wellington’s arrival was in the air, bringing me back to the top deck. Taking a sharp turn, the ferry directs straight towards Wellington’s harbour. It’s a dazzling scene: skyscrapers of the capital are scattered all around the coast and it looks like a hilly place, with many Victorian-style colonies at various heights — which took my mind to San Francisco for a while.

Bidding adieu to the ferry, I headed towards the baggage claim belt — just like airports, and the moment I stepped out, I spotted my Wellington-based friend and host Prabhjot Bajwa who had come to pick me up. Even before I asked how he was, I went on unfolding the hues of my journey. As I put a full stop, he was so right to say, “There’s a reason, why everyone stamps it as one of the most scenic water journeys in the world.” And it cost me just NZD 50, with two free suitcases of 32 kilograms each.