Boba boom

Born in Taiwan and brewed to global fame, bubble tea is finding a new fan base in India, from temple towns to tech parks. One sip and you’re hooked on nostalgia, chew, and chill, writes Meenakshi J

Delicate, glistening orbs bob atop the tea froth, shifting from translucent to nearly invisible as they catch the light. At first glance, they resemble basil seeds, minus the dense, dark centre. These chewy, pearl-like spheres add texture and intrigue to every sip of the famed bubble, or boba tea, which I got thoroughly addicted to during my recent trip to tapioca-shaped Taiwan.

Standing atop the observation deck between the 88th and 91st floors of Taipei 101 in Xinyi district — once the tallest building in the world — I slurped and chewed my way through a cup of bubble tea with an extra-wide straw. It was my first ever, and the taste instantly reminded me of javvarisi payasam, that milky South Indian pudding made with tapioca pearls. This version, though, was sweetened with jaggery instead of sugar, and the glossy pearls were larger, darker — and hence the oversized straw. I had chosen the double brown sugar fresh milk tea with boba, and it offered comfort in a playful new form.

After that delicious first encounter, I began noticing a pattern during my travels through northern Taiwan. It was mostly the younger crowd, expats, and tourists who seemed smitten by this cold, chewy take on tea. The older generation, on the other hand, remained loyal to traditional tea houses — quiet, steamy spaces steeped in stories where tea was brewed with reverence.

Still, let’s give credit where it’s due. Bubble tea may be just four decades old, but it was born in a culture where tea is practically sacred. That this irreverent, sugary drink disrupted age-old rituals and went on to charm the West? Now that’s impressive.

Of course, bubble tea has its share of backstory, and drama. What’s food without a little controversy?

Legend has it that two Taiwanese tea houses — Chun Shui Tang in Taichung and Hanlin Tea Room in Tainan — both claim to have invented bubble tea in 1986. The rivalry spiralled into a decade-long legal battle over patent rights. In the end, the court ruled that neither could claim exclusive ownership since tapioca pearls were already part of Taiwan’s culinary tradition. It wasn’t an invention so much as a clever remix of the familiar.

India, too, hasn’t escaped the boba wave. A country fuelled by its endless cups of tapri chai and filter kaapi has embraced bubble tea with unexpected enthusiasm. Meanwhile, kappa, maravalli, or cassava — the humble root behind tapioca starch — is enjoying a second life in India, not on a plate but in tall takeaway cups.

Known across India as sabudana, javvarisi, or chavvari, these chewy pearls often make an appearance during fasting rituals like Navratri. Though commonly referred to as sago, sabudana is actually derived from tapioca starch, not the sago palm. From crisp fritters to comforting upma and festive kheer, sabudana has quietly woven itself into the Indian culinary fabric. So, when I tasted bubble tea, it was only natural that my mind travelled back to the javvarisi payasam from home.

Interestingly, Tamil Nadu, especially Chennai, has become a new hub for bubble tea in India. Thanks to a growing Taiwanese business presence and a sizable community of professionals, the chewy Taiwanese favourite now pops up in unlikely places — from IT corridors to sleepy towns like Nagercoil in the state’s southernmost tip. Some cafés have embraced the trend with flair, even stocking books like Death by Bubble Tea on their shelves.

One such café is Taiwan Maami in Chennai’s Velachery neighbourhood. Part tribute to the Indo-Taiwanese connection, part global tea movement, this café goes beyond trends. It blends Chinese, Taiwanese, and British tea traditions to craft the perfect cup.

“We treat tea like the core of a cocktail,” says founder Theresa Hu, explaining how every leaf is refresh-roasted each morning, with precise control over brewing time and temperature.

At their flagship outlet in Palladium Mall, visitors are greeted not just by bright interiors and cheerful baristas but by the comforting, toasty aroma of freshly brewed tea. “We wanted to bring the experience of a traditional Taiwanese tea house to Chennai,” she says. “Bubble tea merges tradition and innovation; it’s a perfect fit for a city that’s reinventing its café culture.”

The journey wasn’t without challenges. Launching a brand-new category in an unfamiliar market took time and education. “We had to build awareness from scratch,” admits Theresa. “But Chennai has a dynamic food scene. People here are curious.”

Once people got a taste of what was in their cups, they kept coming back. That includes a loyal base of Taiwanese professionals, especially on weekends. Theresa credits the Consul General of Taiwan in Chennai for supporting their venture and connecting them with large Taiwanese employers like Foxconn. “We see familiar faces week after week. For them, it’s a sip of home.”

Their regulars also include Korean and Japanese expats, drawn by the café’s promise of authentic Northeast Asian flavours.

For newcomers, the Classic Taiwan Milk Tea is the best place to begin. It’s smooth and light, with mellow tea notes, a hint of dairy, and jaggery-braised pearls adding just the right sweetness. “One sip, and everything comes together,” says Theresa, smiling. For something richer, she recommends the Crème Brûlée Oolong Latte or Banoffee Matcha Latte, ideal for those tiptoeing into the boba world.

As it turns out, my first pick in Taiwan was the right one. From Taipei 101 to a strip mall in Velachery, bubble tea has become more than just a trend. It’s a cultural ambassador in a cup, part nostalgia, part novelty, and 100% chew.