Green gastronomy

Traditional Indian cuisine embodies principles of frugality and sustainability with no notion of waste, writes Ketki Gadre

The carbon footprint of food wastage was estimated at 9.3bn tonnes of CO2-equivalent (GtCO2e) emissions in 2017. One of the UN’s Sustainable Development Goals is to halve global food waste and reduce food losses in production and supply by 2030.

Upcycling food has deep roots in India. It is driven by the belief in “Annam Brahma,” which means food is sacred and should never be wasted. Many recipes focused on minimising waste have been passed down through generations and remain staples in Indian households.

As sustainable living gains prominence, India has a unique opportunity to showcase its age-old food traditions, which have flourished for centuries. There are some Indian vegetarian dishes and practices that can inspire global efforts towards sustainability. “Traditional Indian kitchens have always been about frugality, minimisation of waste, minimisation of fuel and time consciousness. These principles together maximised the usability of food, creating a truly sustainable model of the Indian kitchen,” says food historian Kurush Dalal.

Creativity with leftovers

Leftover rice is repurposed by adding water and allowing it to ferment overnight. The water from the fermentation process is often used the next day to cook vegetables or mixed with buttermilk.

The fermented rice, known as Pakhala in Odisha, is typically eaten for breakfast with salt, lime, and chillies and is believed to prevent heat stroke. A similar dish called Panta Bhaat is consumed in Bengal, Chhattisgarh, and Assam.

The leftover flatbreads are creatively upcycled in regions where roti is a staple. In Gujarat, Khakhra is made by dehydrating and roasting leftover rotis, extending their shelf life. In Maharashtra, rotis are shredded into small pieces, tempered with oil and spices, and eaten for breakfast as Phodanichi Poli. In Madhya Pradesh, leftover dal is mixed with flour to make dal parathas.

Paneer, the globally popular cottage cheese, also originated as an upcycling practice. Before refrigeration, women in Punjab would curdle milk during the hot summer months before it spoiled, transforming it into paneer.

Food preservation techniques

Pickling in India is an ancient craft where food is preserved using salt, sugar, oil, and various spices. Each state has its unique pickles, made from local fruits and vegetables. This process not only prevents food spoilage by inhibiting pathogens but also extends the shelf life of ingredients while providing a flavourful condiment. It’s an energy-efficient method, relying on sun-drying for preservation.

Using fruit & vegetable peels

In South India and Northeast India, fruit and vegetable peels, such as those from bottle gourd, ridge gourd, and bitter gourd, are considered highly nutritious and are often repurposed into chutneys by grinding them with spices. “Kokum, a versatile fruit from the Konkan region, is a staple in kitchens across Maharashtra. At our property, committed to sustainability, we even use kokum seeds to make butter,” says executive chef, Dilip Bavkar of Coco Shambhala, Sindhudurg.

Natural fermentation

Idli and dosa are among the most popular traditional fermented foods from Southern India. These leavened, steamed cakes are made from rice and unhulled urad dal, which are ground into a batter and left to ferment overnight. The natural fermentation process occurs with the help of yeast and beneficial bacteria present in the atmosphere. Similarly, Dhokla and Khaman, popular in Gujarat, are also prepared through fermentation.

In Sikkim, a naturally fermented bamboo shoot called Mesu is a well-loved condiment.

Seasonal local foods

Sattu, a nutritious traditional drink from Bihar, is ideal for summer due to its easy digestibility and cooling properties. Roasted to enhance its shelf life, sattu is also known for its medicinal benefits. Another cooling summer drink, Ambil, made from slightly fermented ragi flour, is popular in Maharashtra and North Karnataka for its nourishing and refreshing qualities. Chikki, a traditional sweet made from jaggery and sesame seeds or groundnuts, provides a nutritious and protein-rich treat, especially suited for the winter months.

Carbon-neutral kitchen tools

The industrial process of butter-making is largely mechanised, but traditionally, Indian households have used wooden hand churners to process milk fat. The churning causes the fat to separate, forming butter globules that float to the surface. Similarly, the mortar and pestle, used since ancient times for grinding spices and making chutneys, remains a staple. Though the materials of the mortar have evolved, this traditional tool is still preferred for enhancing flavour, offering a richer taste compared to electric mixers.