In Aizawl, the Home of the Highlanders

As a solo backpacker, I relied on Mizoram’s taxi network to take me to Aizawl — the capital — and found a group of fellow travellers willing to share the cab fare with me for our 30-kilometre drive.

I was backpacking through Tripura when I stumbled upon an incredibly cheap flight to Mizoram for Rs 1,000. In a heartbeat, I booked the ticket even though I had only 24 hours before heading to my life as a corporate slave.

The following morning, I boarded the tiny ATR aircraft that would carry me to Mizoram. The Lengpui airport on the outskirts of Aizawl was small and unassuming. I disembarked and joined a queue of passengers getting checked for the necessary permit to enter Mizoram. Like many states in northeast India, Mizoram requires visitors to have an Inner Line Permit (ILP). Fortunately, I had obtained mine online before embarking on this journey, and I flashed it self-assuredly, striding out of the airport.

As a solo backpacker, I relied on Mizoram’s taxi network to take me to Aizawl — the capital — and found a group of fellow travellers willing to share the cab fare with me for our 30 kilometres drive.

With new companions in tow, we embarked onward, winding through the hills and valleys and marvelling at the rustic beauty of this state. Halfway through our journey, one of the co-passengers, a young Mizo man, asked the cab to pull over for lunch. It was 11.30 am. We grabbed a table at a tiny restaurant where I watched my co-passenger devour a Mizo rice plate. It came with accompaniments such as dal, smoked pork, bamboo shoot fry, some leafy greens and a fermented chutney. I learned that Mizos love their rice — they eat it every day, sometimes thrice a day.

I was not ready to finish a full-course Mizo rice plate, so I ordered tea and Mizo Chow (or simply noodles). Every shop in Mizoram sells Chow, and every shop has its own way of preparing it. Mine was a simple recipe with cabbage and smoked pork, served with clear soup.

Fresh and fortified, we continued our journey to Aizawl and noticed a refreshing change in the weather as we gained altitude. Aizawl is called the land of hill people and is located 3,750 feet above sea level. I had expected the challenges of drainage and waste management that typically plague hilly towns, but Aizawl seemed immaculately clean.

As we reached the city centre, I noticed the absence of traffic signals in the capital. Instead, during peak hours, traffic police managed the flow of vehicles with a strong sense of discipline and order on the roads. It reminded me of my earlier visit to Gangtok with a similar system in place.

Aizawl was buzzing with activity in the business hours of the morning, akin to a Southeast Asian city, with countless two-wheelers zipping through the streets up and down the hill. I decided to rent one of these two-wheelers myself — to explore and get a pulse of the place.

Mizoram’s hidden wonders

My first stop was the Mizoram State Museum to learn about the rich cultural heritage of the Mizo people. Exhibits like traditional attire, handicrafts, musical instruments, and artefacts gave me valuable insight into the history and way of life here.

In Durtlang, eight kilometres north was my next stop — KV Paradise, often called Mizoram’s own Taj Mahal. KV Paradise was built by a local named K Chhawnthuama in memory of his late wife, Rosanpuii Varte. They say the couple dreamt of exploring the world together and saved money to make the dream a reality. But tragedy struck when Rosanpuii met with an accident in 2001 and passed away.

Chhawnthuama used their savings to create this beloved monument. While it may not rival the grandeur of the Taj Mahal, the emotions and sentiments behind both structures remain the same — a testament to love.

Hunger pangs kicked in after my mid-day adventures, so I stopped by a food truck along the road to treat myself to a bowl of sticky rice with beef. I relished every bite of the tender smoked beef accompanied by a tangy, flavoursome red paste that cost a mere Rs 70.

With renewed energy, I continued my exploration to reach Solomon’s Temple, a beautiful towering church built by the Kohhran Thianghlim (Holy Church) group.

Learning about its history, I discovered that the religious monument was modelled after the Temple of Solomon in Jerusalem and is considered one-of-a-kind in Asia. It was founded in December 1996 and took 20 years to complete.

Dusk painted the sky in shades of orange. I turned in the scooter and walked to my hotel, embracing the calm after an eventful day. Aizawl looked beautiful by night, with houses adorning the hillsides, shimmering like countless stars beneath the sky.

The following morning, I prepared to depart. It was Sunday, and the streets were empty, with the occasional passerby heading to church in their best attire.

The Mizo people, comprising 98% Christians, spend Sundays with family and friends after mass while shops and businesses remain closed.

My 24 hours in Aizawl were up. I bid farewell to the city, fully acknowledging that I had only scratched the surface of its wonders. Yet, in a way, it was a good thing. I had reason to return!