Keeping it natural

With its undulating landscapes, dense forests and splendid waterfalls, Coorg is aptly called the Scotland of India

Once upon a time, there lived a king called Kavera in the scenic Brahmagiri hill range of Coorg, who had a daughter called Lopamudra. As Lopamudra grew up to be a beautiful girl, the eyes of Sage Agastya fell on her and he sought her hand in marriage. She agreed on the condition that he would not abandon her even for a single moment.

However, one day, Agastya muni turned Lopamudra into water, poured her into a kamandala, and left the house on his own without her. Angered that her husband had broken his promise, Lopamundra, who always harboured a desire to serve people, flowed out of the kamandala in the form of River Cauvery. The river is now the lifeline of Karnataka and Tamil Nadu, irrigating lakhs of hectares of land and meeting the drinking water needs of millions.

By the river

No trip to Coorg, now known as Kodagu, is complete without a visit to Talacauvery where Cauvery originates, and to Triveni Sangam, a confluence of three rivers at Bhagamandala on the foothills of Brahmagiri. Cauvery is considered one of the five holy rivers of India and the the people of Coorg hold her in high reverence. Tourists should bear in mind that this is a pilgrim centre, not a picnic spot and maintain the minimum decency and decorum required of them. Coorg is an ecologically sensitive area and the local people who are otherwise hospitable may not take kindly to littering, cooking on river banks or disposing of plastic.

Madikeri is the capital of Coorg, which at different times was ruled by the Haleri dynasty, Tipu Sultan and the British. After Independence, Coorg was a separate C-state with a chief minister of its own before it amalgamated with the larger Mysore state (now Karnataka) in 1956.

The seat of power of the rajas was the Madikeri Fort, where the centre of attraction is a masonry structure of two life-sized elephants. There are many stories associated with them. One is that the elephants would trumpet every morning at five to wake up the raja. One day, they failed in their duty and the then king Lingaraja, in a fit of rage, ordered them killed. But he was soon overcome with remorse and got a replica of the elephants installed at the palace.

When in Madikeri, it is imperative to soak in the beauty of nature at Raja’s Seat, which offers a panoramic view of undulating paddy fields and the Western Ghats. Raja’s Seat is so named after a small square canopy in the garden from where the kings would enjoy the sunset.

Temples galore

A short distance from Raja’s seat is the Omkareshwara Temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva. It is said that King Lingarajendra II had put a pious Brahmin to death whose spirit later tormented the royal family. The king then consulted several learned men who advised him to bring a special shivalinga from Kashi and consecrate it at the spot where the Brahmin was killed. The temple is built in Mohammedan style complete with a dome and four minarets, overlooking a huge tank.

The other hotspots in the town are Abbey Falls; Gaddige, the tomb of the kings; and Mandalpatti, a picturesque locale. For those into trekking, the ideal location would be Kote Betta at Surlabi and Tadiandamol at Kakkabe.

If you are an animal lover, you might wish to spend some time at the Dubare Elephant Camp where you can participate in various activities involving tamed pachyderms. A short distance away is the Cauvery Nisargadhama — a beautiful lush green island — and the Golden Temple of Buddha at Bylakuppe.

Towards the south of Madikeri is Iruppu Falls. It is believed that Rama and Lakshmana passed through the Brahmagiri range in search of Sita. When Rama was thirsty, Lakshmana shot an arrow at the hills and a spring sprouted. The river that cascades down Iruppu is called Lakshmana Thirtha. A further drive from here leads you to the Nagarahole National Park, a wildlife sanctuary.

Coorg has contributed several of her valiant sons to the Indian armed forces, especially Field Marshal K M Cariappa and General K S Thimayya. The statues of soldiers, not politicians, is a common sight across the district.

Coorg is not just about destination-hopping. You could also check into a resort or a homestay in the middle of coffee, pepper and cardamom plantations, put your feet up, relax, and return rejuvenated. You could sample Coorg’s exciting cuisine, especially the signature pandhi curry (pork) and akki rotti (rice roti), which are usually downed with dhand bera (two pegs).

You could also dip into the distinct culture of the Kodavas, one of the dominant communities of the district, or partake in their weddings or vibrant festivals. The possibilities are numerous.

Coorg is an unusual destination like no other, and a visit is guaranteed to leave you mesmerised.