<p>From Mahatma Gandhi’s historic 1917 Satyagraha to the ancient Ashokan Pillars, and from the lush Valmiki Tiger Reserve to breathtaking sunsets, West Champaran in north Bihar is a land of discovery. Blessed with natural beauty and steeped in history, it offers both a patriotic pilgrimage and a nature lover’s retreat.</p>.<p><strong>Tracing Gandhi’s footsteps</strong></p>.<p>On April 15, 1917, a train steamed into Champaran carrying not just a passenger, but hope itself. Mahatma Gandhi had arrived to lead impoverished peasants suffering under the British indigo system. Their struggle, immortalised in textbooks and the film Gandhi, sparked the Champaran Satyagraha — a non-violent movement that awakened India’s conscience and shaped the freedom struggle.</p>.<p><strong>On the road to discovery</strong></p>.<p>A smooth drive from Patna along National Highway 727 revealed layers of history. At Lauriya Nandangarh, the pillar stands at approximately 32 feet (10 metres) and was erected by Emperor Ashoka during the Mauryan period, around 241-245 BCE, making it roughly 2,200 years old. Nearby lies a burial mound believed to enshrine the ashes of the Buddha, and further along in Chankigarh, two ancient mounds from the Nanda dynasty whispered stories of a forgotten past.</p>.<p><strong>Into the wild</strong></p>.<p>Spread over 899 sq km, the Valmiki Tiger Reserve is Bihar’s crown jewel. After sampling local delicacies — smoky curd, Marcha Chura, and rice with mutton — tales of elusive tigers set the mood for the next day’s adventure. At dawn, our open jeep rumbled through dense forests of Sal, Teak, and Asan trees. Bird calls, langur chatter, and deer darting across paths brought the forest alive. Our guide pointed out Nilgai, wild boars, Indian bison, and even elephants. We marvelled at twisting Lianas and towering termite mounds, recalling the legend of Ratnakar, the feared bandit who found enlightenment here and became sage Valmiki, the author of the Ramayana. Though the tigers stayed hidden, fresh claw marks on trees hinted at their presence. Declared India’s 18th tiger reserve in 1990, Valmiki now shelters 54 tigers, according to the 2023 census. Once troubled by Naxalite violence until 2020, the area has found new life through tourism, with the Sashastra Seema Bal ensuring its safety.</p>.<p><strong>Bhitiharwa Ashram</strong></p>.<p>A short drive away lies Bhitiharwa Ashram, where Mahatma Gandhi and Kasturba once stayed. Inside, rare photographs of the Satyagraha, Gandhi’s charkha, and his simple table tell the story of that historic struggle.</p>.<p>Outside, a statue of Gandhi’s three monkeys quietly repeats the timeless message: “See no evil, hear no evil, speak no evil.”</p>.<p><strong>Ashoka’s legacy</strong></p>.<p>At Rampurva, Ashoka’s early pillars commemorate the Buddha’s renunciation of royal life.</p>.<p>Our guide pointed out Brahmi inscriptions conveying Ashoka’s messages of Dharma, Ahimsa, and harmony. Though the lion and bull capitals now reside in Rashtrapati Bhawan and Kolkata’s Indian Museum, the site retains a serene spiritual aura.</p>.<p><strong>Sunset at Lalbhitiya Giri</strong></p>.<p>The day ended at Lalbhitiya Giri Sunset Point, a rocky perch reached after a forested climb.</p>.<p>From there, the golden light revealed sweeping views of the gorge below and the distant ridges of Nepal’s mountains.</p>.<p class="bodytext"><span class="bold"><strong>The how-tos</strong></span></p>.<p class="bodytext"><span class="bold"><strong>Getting there: </strong>Nearest airport: Gorakhpur <br />(125 kms), Patna (330 kms)<br />Nearest railway station: Narkatiaganj (98 kms)</span></p>.<p class="bodytext"><span class="bold"><strong>Stay: Government guest houses at Valmikinagar, Gonauli, Naurangia, Gobardhana, Manguraha</strong></span></p>.<p class="bodytext"><span class="bold"><strong>What to do: Jungle safari, cycle safari, and canopy walk;<br />Visit the Ashoka Pillars and the Bhitiharwa Ashram</strong></span></p>
<p>From Mahatma Gandhi’s historic 1917 Satyagraha to the ancient Ashokan Pillars, and from the lush Valmiki Tiger Reserve to breathtaking sunsets, West Champaran in north Bihar is a land of discovery. Blessed with natural beauty and steeped in history, it offers both a patriotic pilgrimage and a nature lover’s retreat.</p>.<p><strong>Tracing Gandhi’s footsteps</strong></p>.<p>On April 15, 1917, a train steamed into Champaran carrying not just a passenger, but hope itself. Mahatma Gandhi had arrived to lead impoverished peasants suffering under the British indigo system. Their struggle, immortalised in textbooks and the film Gandhi, sparked the Champaran Satyagraha — a non-violent movement that awakened India’s conscience and shaped the freedom struggle.</p>.<p><strong>On the road to discovery</strong></p>.<p>A smooth drive from Patna along National Highway 727 revealed layers of history. At Lauriya Nandangarh, the pillar stands at approximately 32 feet (10 metres) and was erected by Emperor Ashoka during the Mauryan period, around 241-245 BCE, making it roughly 2,200 years old. Nearby lies a burial mound believed to enshrine the ashes of the Buddha, and further along in Chankigarh, two ancient mounds from the Nanda dynasty whispered stories of a forgotten past.</p>.<p><strong>Into the wild</strong></p>.<p>Spread over 899 sq km, the Valmiki Tiger Reserve is Bihar’s crown jewel. After sampling local delicacies — smoky curd, Marcha Chura, and rice with mutton — tales of elusive tigers set the mood for the next day’s adventure. At dawn, our open jeep rumbled through dense forests of Sal, Teak, and Asan trees. Bird calls, langur chatter, and deer darting across paths brought the forest alive. Our guide pointed out Nilgai, wild boars, Indian bison, and even elephants. We marvelled at twisting Lianas and towering termite mounds, recalling the legend of Ratnakar, the feared bandit who found enlightenment here and became sage Valmiki, the author of the Ramayana. Though the tigers stayed hidden, fresh claw marks on trees hinted at their presence. Declared India’s 18th tiger reserve in 1990, Valmiki now shelters 54 tigers, according to the 2023 census. Once troubled by Naxalite violence until 2020, the area has found new life through tourism, with the Sashastra Seema Bal ensuring its safety.</p>.<p><strong>Bhitiharwa Ashram</strong></p>.<p>A short drive away lies Bhitiharwa Ashram, where Mahatma Gandhi and Kasturba once stayed. Inside, rare photographs of the Satyagraha, Gandhi’s charkha, and his simple table tell the story of that historic struggle.</p>.<p>Outside, a statue of Gandhi’s three monkeys quietly repeats the timeless message: “See no evil, hear no evil, speak no evil.”</p>.<p><strong>Ashoka’s legacy</strong></p>.<p>At Rampurva, Ashoka’s early pillars commemorate the Buddha’s renunciation of royal life.</p>.<p>Our guide pointed out Brahmi inscriptions conveying Ashoka’s messages of Dharma, Ahimsa, and harmony. Though the lion and bull capitals now reside in Rashtrapati Bhawan and Kolkata’s Indian Museum, the site retains a serene spiritual aura.</p>.<p><strong>Sunset at Lalbhitiya Giri</strong></p>.<p>The day ended at Lalbhitiya Giri Sunset Point, a rocky perch reached after a forested climb.</p>.<p>From there, the golden light revealed sweeping views of the gorge below and the distant ridges of Nepal’s mountains.</p>.<p class="bodytext"><span class="bold"><strong>The how-tos</strong></span></p>.<p class="bodytext"><span class="bold"><strong>Getting there: </strong>Nearest airport: Gorakhpur <br />(125 kms), Patna (330 kms)<br />Nearest railway station: Narkatiaganj (98 kms)</span></p>.<p class="bodytext"><span class="bold"><strong>Stay: Government guest houses at Valmikinagar, Gonauli, Naurangia, Gobardhana, Manguraha</strong></span></p>.<p class="bodytext"><span class="bold"><strong>What to do: Jungle safari, cycle safari, and canopy walk;<br />Visit the Ashoka Pillars and the Bhitiharwa Ashram</strong></span></p>
