Change, hidden in plain sight

Madam, anything is possible in India, it just takes time,” a shopkeeper astutely told me once. How much time though? I recently read a blog post that opined that many foreign travellers think India hasn’t changed much in the last 20 years and probably won’t change much in the next 20. It left me a bit perplexed, because I’ve noticed India evolving rapidly, especially over the last decade. With so much innovation and development going on, it feels like a really exciting time to be in India. Surely the changes aren’t too subtle for a traveller to notice?

Those who landed at Delhi or Mumbai airports 20 years ago would’ve found themselves in antiquated old terminal buildings, greeted by swarms of mosquitoes and an unforgettable musty aroma. In contrast, the swanky new international terminals at these airports are undeniably world-standard. Similar upgrades are taking place at airports in other cities, and regional air connectivity has also vastly improved. The behemoth that is Indian Railways has made an effort to enhance user experience, too, by overhauling its online ticket booking site to make it more functional. Air-conditioned Metro trains now run all over Delhi, and extensive progress is being made in building Metro train networks across the country.

Twenty years ago in India, I didn’t come across many domestic tourists staying in hotels. However, better jobs and higher disposable incomes have altered this, enabling people to be much more upwardly mobile. Hip western-style backpacker hostels with co-working spaces have mushroomed to cater to the younger crowd. Such hostels were still a foreign concept in India a decade ago. Even the nature of tourism in India is gradually changing, with more options being offered for experiential and rural travel.

Anyone who has been visiting India for a length of time would surely notice the proliferation of trendy restaurants, bars, coffee shops and tea cafes. Attitudes towards females drinking alcohol have become more liberal, at least in major cities. Fifteen years ago, in Kolkata, a random man on the street warned me that I was standing too close to a liquor store and I should move away. Two years ago, in Kolkata, I saw women making purchases in liqour stores. Interest in wine and wine tourism is expanding in India. It took a while, but my life feels complete now that some decent Chardonnay is finally being produced here!

However, what I’m most overjoyed about is the growing range of non-toxic goods, and gourmet and organic health foods. No longer do I have to hunt for broccoli or Italian sweet basil. They’ve become so common that even the local roadside vegetable-wala sells them. My days of lugging eco-friendly cleaning products and handwash all the way back from Australia are happily over. Some great new Indian brands are also coming out with natural skincare and makeup. I don’t have to leave my home to get groceries either. Thanks to advancing technology, I can order online, and they’ll be delivered in a few hours.

Perhaps it’s the dirt, the chaos, and the noise that foreign travellers notice the most about India and think those will never change. Pollution is unfortunately increasing, and the slow progress in improving sanitation is challenging. Cleanliness initiatives such as Swachh Bharat Abhiyan have lofty goals but gaps in delivery. Some monuments have been restored while others still require attention. Meanwhile, vibrant street art projects have refreshed walls and public spaces. Admittedly, India still has a fetish for cumbersome procedures and excessive paper trails, but that is gradually being modified as well. Even a trip to the Foreigners Regional Registration Office (FRRO) has become surprisingly more streamlined and less daunting.

As the saying goes, “Rome wasn’t built in a day”. While the ‘New India’ won’t be either, change is definitely underway!

(Sharell Cook the travel writer from Down Under who has made Mumbai her home is trying to make sense of India one ‘Like That Only’ at a time)