Chitradurga Fort: A masterpiece in stone

A near-impregnable fort built on craggy rocks and winding its way across the rocky hill structure, the Chitradurga Fort is known for its superior architecture, writes Sudha Balachandran

The beautiful Chitradurga Fort is known locally as Kallina Kote — or stone fortress. It was built in stages between the 11th and 13th centuries by the local rulers belonging to different kingdoms including the Chalukyas, Hoysalas, and the Nayaks of the Vijaynagar empire.

We visited the fort in the early hours when the sun was still slowly rising and spreading its warmth over the horizon. At the entrance of the rocky gateway, we found sculptures of Gods and a huge snake on the rock wall. A young guide joined us and pointed out interesting features of the fort while sharing its history. The fort is built in the zig-zag pattern of the snake. It straddles over a series of seven hills and is built in concentric circles starting from the base of one of the hills. It is thus called Yelu Suttine kote meaning fort of seven circles. This superior architecture ensured that the fort could not be easily attacked. Also, the fort walls were naturally thickened and fortified by the rocky boulders. In addition, several large doorways were built within the fort, and placed around the concentric circles such that even if one of the doorways was attacked and seized, the other doors could still offer protection.

As we walked up the rocky path, our guide enlightened us about the high level of science and architecture used while building the fort. He showed us the little holes on the rock walls that were used to hold lit torches. He pointed out the identification marks sculpted on the rock surface that acted as indicators — the face of a fish pointed to a water source. The smooth paths also had small cuts and holes carved out — so that horses could tread easily without slipping on the smooth surface.

We marvelled at the strength and science used by people nearly 800 years earlier. The fort also employed a scientific system for harvesting rainwater — several inter-connected tanks at various levels were constructed that stored the rainwater, such that the overflow from one would fill the pond below. Two ponds that were built side by side were called the Akka-Thangi kolas — elder and younger sister ponds! This system ensured that there never was a water shortage. Our guide pointed out several rock structures that dotted the fort — some were granaries to store grains, another was a hidden money vault to store the coins and other treasures, and an open-air gymnasium for the soldiers.

Several temples were also built within the fort — the most famous among them being the Hidimbeshwara temple, the Venugopala Swamy Temple and the local deity of Goddess Ekantheshwari. A huge rock tower with two swing frames and a monolithic pillar forming the Dwaja Sthamba are imposing rocky structures found in the central part of the fort and they look supremely magnificent.

A visit to the fort is incomplete without seeing the Onake Obavvana Kindi and listening to the heroics of this brave lady. Obavva’s husband was a soldier in King Madakari Nayaka’s time and he was stationed in the watchtower to look out for enemy incursions. One afternoon, he had returned home for lunch which Obavva lovingly served him. She found that there was not enough water and so took a pot and headed to the kola. There, in a small breach in the rock, she heard some noise and found enemy soldiers belonging to Haider Ali slowly climbing up the opening. Not wanting to disturb her husband, she stood beside the rock holding her Onake — a thick wooden log used for pounding grain. As each enemy soldier clambered up the small opening, she bludgeoned him with her log and killed him. Single-handedly, she dragged the dead soldiers to one side and waited for the next one to climb up. She killed several of them before her husband realised what was happening and alerted the troops. Thus, the spirited Onake Obavva saved the day for Madakari Nayaka’s men.

We had a memorable two-and-a-half-hour trek of the fort and came back mesmerised by the advanced level of planning and architecture employed nearly a century back — truly a masterpiece in stone!

How to reach Chitradurga

Chitradurga is well connected by road and train. It is situated about 200 km north-west of Bengaluru. A well-developed highway between the two cities ensures that the distance can be easily covered in under 3 hours. There are several trains connecting Bengaluru and Chitradurga.