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Return to the classic era

Last Updated : 10 July 2009, 09:31 IST
Last Updated : 10 July 2009, 09:31 IST

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IIn its most common usage, "fashion" exemplifies the appearances of clothing, but the term encompasses more. Many types of fashion trends are popular in many cultures at any given time. These trends happen to change more rapidly than the culture as a whole. As against women’s clothing, menswear take a longer time in evolving, and designers are far less experimental with it.

The 2009 suit
While suiting and formal-wear trends for men aren't seasonal and play out over several years, 2009 shall mark a distinct change in the direction of men's suiting. Recession brings in a mood for "playing safe", "the search for value", and "budgeted spending", and thus the well groomed man looks for 'investment worthy' fashion pieces and turns to the 'classics' for inspiration. 'Classic' is a term typically used to describe a style, which is ageless.

This year, globally designers have been seen trying to play safe by ensuring consumers keep buying in this gray period. Classic cuts and classic patters were previewed on most catwalks for Fall 2009.

The Manorexic look, or the skinny boy silhouette bids adieu, along with it go the suits, which seemed like they barely left you room to breathe! 

Yet - the slim look does not entirely go out. Since there is a return to classic suiting let's not forget that the most classic suit is the English one, and that the best English suits have always had a slim, military cut to them.

The end of this century's first decade will bring about the perfect fusion between classic tailoring, classic looks, and the modern masculine silhouette. The broad shoulder, slim waist and slim trousers.

Double breasted suits return
2009's double-breasted suits are no longer about hiding a plump figure but are now tailored to highlight the perfect masculine shape: the V-shaped, well worked body! A silhouette the current generations will be familiar with. So when selecting a double-breasted suit look for the "Kent" cut, named after a style popularised by the The Prince George, Duke of Kent, where a longer lapel line extends into the waist. This will convey height and, if cut correctly, a slimmer waist.

While we are in the mood of classic and with hint of retro, the 3 piece suit makes a comeback too. The popularity of the waistcoat, (that never really went out), brings back this suit! The waistcoat remains conservative and, thus, in the same fabric as the suit's other two pieces. While ordering your suit remember a waistcoat with a deeper V conveys a slimmer waist more effectively.

If we're returning to the classics with double breasted and three-piece suits in 2009, then it stands to reason that we're also returning to classic cloth patterns. The hound's-tooth, the herringbone, and the pinstripe patterns will be preferred.

Club wear
The military shape always has been a fashion driven trend for the colder months; but this year designers are modifying and have transformed this combat uniform. Gothic ripped trousers, black boots with hints of the metallic body combat suit!

In the recent past various Hip-hop artistes started adapting classic sportswear that created a new craze for the classic sports tees. The demand made these sports brands wake up and actually introduce a line of their classic original sportswear. Eclectic combination of denims, teamed with boots, and sports tees are popular. At clubs where the dress code is formal, you can’t go wrong with a good fitted classic black shirt and slim fit trousers.

For a casual Sunday lunch, avoid the cargo, shorts, or the ones that break below the knee. Instead we recommend well-tailored shorts that have a refined cut, which promises a comfortable, distinguished, yet wholly less casual look.

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Published 10 July 2009, 09:31 IST

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