JOIN USIn search of the sage...
The yatra season had begun and the train was packed to the core. Somehow, I managed to reach Trivandrum in the wee hours of the chilly morning. I headed right away to a place called Kottur.
From there, I took a jeep to the small, sleepy hamlet of a Kanni tribe settlement called Podium, which was tucked away inside the Peppara Wildlife Sanctuary.
Refreshing under a perennial waterfall nearby, I sighted the monolithic giant rock face of Agasthyamala that dominated the landscape. Spread over 23 sq km, Agasthyamalai Biosphere Reserve straddles the border of Kerala and Tamil Nadu in the Western Ghats. It is also called the Ashambu Hills or Agasthyagoodum. The hills are notable as the habitat for over 2,000 species of medicinal plants amongst which 50 plants are quite rare, even endangered. It is also known as the abode of Sage Agastya, hence the name Agasthyamala.
Agasthyamalai is also the place of origin of many rivers like Kallada, Achankoil, Vamanapuram, Thamirabarani, etc. These hills are a picture of exceptional natural beauty. A very rare herbal plant named aroggya pacha (plant of eternal health) is a speciality of Agasthyamalai, attracting many researchers to this area. The flower of the plant neelakurinji, which blooms once in 12 years, can also be found here. In fact, there is a portion in this area that is carpeted with this violet coloured flower — an eye catching sight, indeed.
After having lunch by the stream, I climbed for over three hours and finally reached a place called Athirumala — the base camp for the trek. The forest department has ensured the safety of the rest house occupants by digging deep trenches around it.
After a sumptuous breakfast of tapioca, I left with my guide for Agasthyamalai. The mist had enveloped the peak and it seemed as though we were walking through an air-conditioned forest. After over an hour of brisk walking, we reached a place called Pongalapara, an open place where the north ridge to the hill begins.
The climb over the slippery rock face was an arduous task. The wind only added to our exhaustion. The entire hill was covered with dense fog that only offered a faint glimpse of the black hillocks in the vicinity. The bird’s eye view of the Neyyar Dam and the forest is too stunning to describe. An idol of Sage Agastya can also be found here. Devotees come here to offer puja, seeking blessings in return. According to local custom, women between ages 14 and 50 are not allowed to visit the hill.
My guide warned me about the deteriorating weather conditions. He also reminded me of the steep descent down the ridge. It is strictly not advisable to visit the place during monsoons or during bad weather conditions.
After spending the night in the forest rest house, we hit the return trail the next morning, making our way towards home.