An ancient baoli comes back to life

The efforts of the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) and various government agencies in restoring Mehrauli’s Gandhak Ki Baoli seem to have finally been compensated by mother earth.

In the scorching summer that has visited Delhi this year, leaving all historical baolis
excluding only the one in Nizamuddin, bone dry, Gandhak Ki Baoli is not just wet
but brimming with water.

Negotiating the narrow and dusty bylanes of this ancient sub-city, one least expects to come across a living step-well till actually you hear sounds of water being splashed around.

Behind a masjid and walls of yellow sandstone, emerges a small gate and then a five-tiered expansive step-well crowded by many a local boys only in undergarments making a splash from the top most pavilion available.

This is in stark contrast to the pictures of a gaping hollow five-tiers of Gandhak Ki Baoli that emerged last year and the year before when summers left it parched dry. Even the neighbouring Rajon Ki Baoli has only few drops of dirty water when compared with Gandhak Ki Baoli.

Hidden in the extreme south of Delhi, this step-well is an architectural, historical and natural wonder combined. It was commissioned by emperor Iltutmish - the founder of the slave dynasty – in honour of renowned Sufi saint Khwaja Bakhtiar Kaki. Kaki’s shrine also lies in Mehrauli and every autumn, it is the site for the famous ‘Phoolwaron Ki Sair’ or ‘Festival of Flowers’ which promotes communal harmony.

Gandhak Ki Baoli has an impressive architecture which is, ironically, best viewed when it’s devoid of water. Akin to the other baolis, a flight of stairs, punctuated with landings with chambers, leads to the bottom.

The sculpted pillars are an immediate attraction. However, what is particularly interesting about this baoli is its suspected source - a sulphur (gandhak) spring. Its water is, therefore, believed to have medicinal properties.

A local, Mahendra Kumar tells us, “This water heals everything, from heat rash to boils. A lot of people fill up bottles with this water and take it home for bathing and cleansing. Most, of course, just make a splash here. We have grown up frolicking in this baoli.”

Many myths and lores are also flourishing in this baoli with its rising water level.

Mohammad Parvez, who we met at the adjacent Gandhak Ki Baoli Wali Masjid, said, “At least a dozen people have died in the past years after slipping or diving into this well. Every time someone dies, the water goes down.”

“Thankfully, nobody has died of late. Hence, the water level has come up again.”