<div>As the green hills of Western Ghats lining northward enter Maharashtra through Belagavi district, they take a little curve and end in a cusp. In fact, this is a trijunction, where the states of Karnataka, Goa and Maharashtra meet. The topography here is marked by high plateaus, deep valleys, dense and impenetrable forests. The rivers that take birth here tumble down as spectacular waterfalls, before flowing down the plains, rejuvenating the surrounding regions. <br /><br />In such pristine locales are a few isolated villages that are almost inconspicuous. One such little-known village is Kankumbi, located 43 km southwest of Belagavi. Kankumbi may appear unassuming but hidden in its fold are a couple of wonders like a temple with legendary history and a mesmerising waterfall.<br /><br />Driving towards Kankumbi from Belagavi on a salubrious morning, the alluring landscape unfolded fresh and lively forests drenched in the last few showers. After 26 km from Jamboti, another town tucked away in the woods, the road merged with the Khanapur-Panaji highway. As we arrived at Kankumbi, the place seemed to be waking up from its slumber. A few houses and shops lined the only street that led to the ancient temple of Mauli. The temple of Mahalakshmi or Mauli, as referred to locally, is a typical Konkan-styled shrine with a two-tiered structure. The sloping roofs are supported by a series of pillars all around. The entrance leads to a mukhamantapa followed by a small courtyard. A few steps lead to the sanctum on a raised platform that houses Goddess Mahalakshmi. The temple is said to be very ancient and is highly venerated by local people. <br /><br />New vistas<br />This is also the birthplace of River Malaprabha that flows eastwards before joining Krishna at Kudala Sangama in Bagalkot. A rectangular stone pond in the temple complex holds clear blue water. However, the water turns milky white when it springs once every 12 years, when Guru enters makara rashi, says the priest. According to him, the actual origin of the river is a few hundred metres away, beside the Ramalingeshwara Temple across a slushy field. <br /><br />We then took a detour and followed a narrow lane to reach the other shrine. The temple is much simpler with two roofs sloping towards east and west. It is interesting to note that the rainwater falling on the east side drains to Malaprabha, while the water from the other roof flows westward to join River Mahadayi! The pillar in front of the temple, made up of a series of circular blocks of laterite, is also unique. <br /><br />Adjacent to the temple is an old well, which is said to be the actual birthplace of Malaprabha. It is said that water flows subterraneously from here to the pond at Mauli Temple. In ancient times, a number of sages and saints lived here and among them, Sage Kulakamuni is said to have performed a rigorous penance. As a result of his intense devotion, Lord Shiva offered a Shivalinga to be installed at the spot and created River Malaprabha to provide sacred water for the rituals. It is the same linga that is worshipped today at the Ramalingeshwara Temple. The town was named Kulakambi after this saint and later became Kankumbi. <br /><br />The tiny shrine adjacent to the temple has a strange hand idol made of silver and there is an interesting story behind it. It is said that a girl named Malli was residing in the sage’s ashram and was an ardent devotee. Once, when she ventured into the forest, a demon attacked her. As the final measure of escape, she jumped into the river. Kulakamuni, on hearing her cries for help, invoked Goddess Shakti, who slayed the demon. When the sage was searching for her, Malli raised her hand above the water, indicating she is alive.<br /><br />But Kankumbi isn’t just famous for its temples. About four km from the village, on the road to Goa, is the village of Sural, which has an astounding waterfalls of the same name. Also called Surla, the village is even more primitive. Situated on the edge of a forested mountain, it gives us the opportunity of experiencing a mind-blowing view of the waterfalls — a tall white cascade in the middle of a densely- forested valley. A tributary of Mahadayi, Sural flows through thick jungles and tumbles down about 120 feet in the backdrop of a heart-shaped vertical cliff. The sweeping view of the whole landscape is truly breathtaking. At times, mist covers the falls, giving it an ethereal appeal. <br /><br />It is a wonder that such exotic locales remain unblemished in today’s commercial world. Let’s hope they stay the same forever.</div>
<div>As the green hills of Western Ghats lining northward enter Maharashtra through Belagavi district, they take a little curve and end in a cusp. In fact, this is a trijunction, where the states of Karnataka, Goa and Maharashtra meet. The topography here is marked by high plateaus, deep valleys, dense and impenetrable forests. The rivers that take birth here tumble down as spectacular waterfalls, before flowing down the plains, rejuvenating the surrounding regions. <br /><br />In such pristine locales are a few isolated villages that are almost inconspicuous. One such little-known village is Kankumbi, located 43 km southwest of Belagavi. Kankumbi may appear unassuming but hidden in its fold are a couple of wonders like a temple with legendary history and a mesmerising waterfall.<br /><br />Driving towards Kankumbi from Belagavi on a salubrious morning, the alluring landscape unfolded fresh and lively forests drenched in the last few showers. After 26 km from Jamboti, another town tucked away in the woods, the road merged with the Khanapur-Panaji highway. As we arrived at Kankumbi, the place seemed to be waking up from its slumber. A few houses and shops lined the only street that led to the ancient temple of Mauli. The temple of Mahalakshmi or Mauli, as referred to locally, is a typical Konkan-styled shrine with a two-tiered structure. The sloping roofs are supported by a series of pillars all around. The entrance leads to a mukhamantapa followed by a small courtyard. A few steps lead to the sanctum on a raised platform that houses Goddess Mahalakshmi. The temple is said to be very ancient and is highly venerated by local people. <br /><br />New vistas<br />This is also the birthplace of River Malaprabha that flows eastwards before joining Krishna at Kudala Sangama in Bagalkot. A rectangular stone pond in the temple complex holds clear blue water. However, the water turns milky white when it springs once every 12 years, when Guru enters makara rashi, says the priest. According to him, the actual origin of the river is a few hundred metres away, beside the Ramalingeshwara Temple across a slushy field. <br /><br />We then took a detour and followed a narrow lane to reach the other shrine. The temple is much simpler with two roofs sloping towards east and west. It is interesting to note that the rainwater falling on the east side drains to Malaprabha, while the water from the other roof flows westward to join River Mahadayi! The pillar in front of the temple, made up of a series of circular blocks of laterite, is also unique. <br /><br />Adjacent to the temple is an old well, which is said to be the actual birthplace of Malaprabha. It is said that water flows subterraneously from here to the pond at Mauli Temple. In ancient times, a number of sages and saints lived here and among them, Sage Kulakamuni is said to have performed a rigorous penance. As a result of his intense devotion, Lord Shiva offered a Shivalinga to be installed at the spot and created River Malaprabha to provide sacred water for the rituals. It is the same linga that is worshipped today at the Ramalingeshwara Temple. The town was named Kulakambi after this saint and later became Kankumbi. <br /><br />The tiny shrine adjacent to the temple has a strange hand idol made of silver and there is an interesting story behind it. It is said that a girl named Malli was residing in the sage’s ashram and was an ardent devotee. Once, when she ventured into the forest, a demon attacked her. As the final measure of escape, she jumped into the river. Kulakamuni, on hearing her cries for help, invoked Goddess Shakti, who slayed the demon. When the sage was searching for her, Malli raised her hand above the water, indicating she is alive.<br /><br />But Kankumbi isn’t just famous for its temples. About four km from the village, on the road to Goa, is the village of Sural, which has an astounding waterfalls of the same name. Also called Surla, the village is even more primitive. Situated on the edge of a forested mountain, it gives us the opportunity of experiencing a mind-blowing view of the waterfalls — a tall white cascade in the middle of a densely- forested valley. A tributary of Mahadayi, Sural flows through thick jungles and tumbles down about 120 feet in the backdrop of a heart-shaped vertical cliff. The sweeping view of the whole landscape is truly breathtaking. At times, mist covers the falls, giving it an ethereal appeal. <br /><br />It is a wonder that such exotic locales remain unblemished in today’s commercial world. Let’s hope they stay the same forever.</div>
